Zooming across the sand dunes at Lincoln National Park in a silver 300 Series VX Landcruiser, I peered out the windows as our guide, David “Lunch” Doudle, pointed to a set of emu tracks not far in the distance. Unfortunately, it appeared that we’d just missed the animals themselves. “Not to worry,” Doudle assured us. “Loads more wildlife to see.”
We’d only just met, but Doudle, the owner and self-professed “grand poobah” of Australian Coastal Safaris, had the sort of affable personality that invites trust. Of course, that sentiment was underscored by a few other factors — namely, his experience as a fourth-generation local farmer and roughly 19 years of running tours throughout the state of South Australia’s Eyre Peninsula.
I’m a firm believer that seeing a destination through the eyes of a local brings magical insights you’re unlikely to get on your own. That goes double for less-frequented places like South Australia and, specifically, the Eyre. While tourism to the state has been growing steadily over the past several years, it’s still not at the top of most first-timers’ to-do lists.
For Americans, those top spots often go to Sydney and Melbourne on Australia’s east coast, as well as the Great Barrier Reef. But my inaugural trip Down Under back in 2018 — during which I spent most of my time in South Australia’s capital, Adelaide — proved that many travelers are missing out.
In Adelaide, I had some of the best food of my life, including an unforgettable meal at Parwana, a casual Afghan restaurant serving homey dishes like Kabuli Palaw, fluffy rice studded with carrots and raisins. And the wine regions just outside the city — in particular McLaren Vale, Adelaide Hills, Barossa Valley, and Clare Valley — rival the best in California, both in terms of their beauty and the caliber of the vineyards. I’d been so wowed by South Australia’s gastronomy that I wanted to return for a deeper dive.
A trip to the Eyre Peninsula felt like the ideal way to do just that. The 90,000-square-mile region in the state’s south supplies a whopping 65% of the country’s seafood, and visitors can immerse themselves in the scene during tours of oyster farms around Coffin Bay. As I researched things to do, I also learned the peninsula is a hub for outdoor adventures, from swimming with playful sea lions and dolphins to cage-diving with great whites to camping in coastal parks teeming with birds. This two-day seafood and wildlife safari with Doudle would give me the chance to do a little bit of everything.
My group of seven had landed in the town of Port Lincoln that morning after a quick 50-minute flight from Adelaide. Our drive through the dunes had already ticked the adventure box and led us to a rugged cliff-top overlooking Sleaford Bay, where we were about to taste the seafood I’d heard so much about. While my travel companions and I took in the crashing waves and snapped photos of the coastline, Doudle and our other guide, Sarah Hayes, set up for lunch.
The star of our cook-up was abalone that Doudle had plucked from the bay the day prior. Armed with just a folding table, a hot plate, and a pair of tongs, he expertly sauteed the thinly sliced snails with heaps of garlic and fresh lemon juice before sliding them onto a plate. Even the less daring eaters among us were impressed with how fresh and tender the abalone was — more like calamari than escargot. We piled our plates high with the delicacy and fresh side salads, washing it all down with a zippy sauvignon blanc from Port Lincoln’s Boston Bay Wines.
We were making our way down the dirt road out of the park when Doudle stopped the car, hopped out, and bent down to scoop something up. As he turned around, we realized he’d spotted a chunky monitor lizard (or a goanna, in Aussie parlance), which he brought around to show us. “Nasty bites, these fellas,” he said. “But he seems like a friendly one.”
After ensuring our new pal was safely back in the grass, we headed for Mikkira Station, a sheep farm turned private campground and koala sanctuary. We embarked on our walking safari, traipsing through the tall grass with Doudle in the lead. As we approached a grove of Manna gum trees, a loud snort emanated from a low-hanging branch.
I wish I could say I kept my cool, having seen koalas in the wild before, but it had always been at a distance, peering through binoculars at a ball of gray fluff perched several stories up. This time, I was just a foot or two away. I soon realized there were koalas all around us — about a dozen in total, each more adorable than the last. We spent a good 20 minutes wandering from tree to tree snapping photos and videos before capping the afternoon with happy-hour drinks and a spread of local cheeses.
For dinner, we were treated to a seafood feast at the home of Chef Kris Bunda. Taking our places in a semi-circle arranged in front of his flat-top grilling station, we watched Bunda prepare the meal as he fielded questions about everything from the food scene to sustainable fishing and aquaculture. Despite its relatively moderate size and population (around 25,000 people), Port Lincoln is home to the largest commercial fishing fleet in the Southern Hemisphere. Our meal highlighted an impressive array of the fishermen’s hauls, including Southern rock lobster, Boston Bay blue mussels, and red snapper.
The next morning, we explored Coffin Bay, starting with a visit to Yarnbala, a cultural center run by conservationist Kane Slater and his family. Gathered around the central fire pit, we listened to Slater welcome us with his three didgeridoos, their guttural hum a meditative invitation to the setting — a critically endangered she-oak woodland ecosystem that his family is determined to protect. Afterward, Slater walked us around the property, pointing out bush foods like quandong (a type of native peach) and teaching us the art of water divination.
Our next destination should’ve been Coffin Bay for an oyster farm excursion — waders and all — but stormy weather scuttled our plans. Thankfully, Doudle’s close ties to his community allowed us to pivot with ease. At the headquarters of Executive Oysters, oyster farmer Zain Young walked us through the intensive process of harvesting the bivalves, showed us how the behemoth sorting machine works, and explained what makes the local varieties so prized. As we slurped plump, briny samples, we learned that it takes an average of 12 to 24 months for the oysters to grow from tiny 4-millimeter seeds to market size. For most of that time, they’re submerged in baskets that hang in the bay, fed by nutrient-rich currents from the Southern Ocean.
A late lunch at 1802 Oyster Bar felt like a fitting end to a whirlwind 48 hours. In short order, our table filled with dishes that highlighted more of the Eyre Peninsula’s bounty: loaded potato skins fancified by a dollop of smoked fish mousse; sweet barbecued prawns from nearby Spencer Gulf balanced with tangy pickled fennel; and butterflied King George Whiting accented with smoked mussels and preserved lemon butter. And, of course, more than a few oysters.
Other Things To Do:
Australia's first International Dark Sky Reserve sits about 90 minutes northeast of Adelaide. As one of only 21 officially designated dark-sky reserves, the roughly 1,200-square-mile expanse is an ideal place for stargazing, whether you choose to camp out or book a houseboat. For added insights, consider Juggle House’s Gold Stars Sunset Dinner or astronomy session, which are co-hosted by astronomy experts and Traditional Owners.
Nearly half of this natural haven was decimated during the bushfire season of 2020, when flames killed thousands of animals and destroyed just over 800 square miles of the pristine landscape, as well as the iconic Southern Ocean Lodge. But KI, as Aussies call it, has proven incredibly resilient. The endemic flora and fauna have bounced back, and so has the beloved hotel, which was rebuilt and reopened at the end of 2023.
When To Go:
Spring (September to November) and fall (March through May) tend to be the best seasons to visit the southern part of South Australia. You’ll get the best of the Mediterranean climate, with temperate weather and ample sunshine.
Where To Stay:
In Port Lincoln, Australian Coastal Safaris operates a modern four-bedroom beach house, where I stayed during my trip. It’s smart to build in at least a day or two in Adelaide on either side of your visit to the Eyre Peninsula. I’m partial to eos by SkyCity, a stylish, 120-room stunner in the Riverbank Precinct that debuted in 2020, or the sleek Sofitel Adelaide, located in the Central Business District near Therapy Cocktail Bar, one of my favorite places to grab a drink.