Aspen has become notorious for attracting the rich and famous for skiing, shopping, and events like the Aspen Ideas festival and the Food & Wine Classic. But at its core, it’s a classic Western ski town with innumerable charms and some of the world’s best powder.
We reached out to Patrick Davila, General Manager of Hotel Jerome, Auberge Resorts Collection, to reveal his insider tips so you can experience Aspen like a local.
Most of Aspen’s culinary scene is located in the pocket of blocks between Main Street and Durant Avenue, at the foot of the Little Nell chair lift and Silver Queen Gondola.
For happy hour, the GM’s go-to spots include Clark’s Oyster Bar (3 p.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday) — also an idyllic place for après-ski just three blocks from Aspen Mountain Ski Resort. Martinis are half-price at $10; don’t miss the Stirred Vesper with Hayman’s Gin, vodka, Cap Corse Kina, and a lemon twist. (Very James Bond-goes-to-Colorado.) Another of his favorite deals can be found at West End Social at Aspen Meadows Resort: Martini Mondays, when a martini with a caviar bump will only set you back $35.
In adjacent Carbondale, Tiny Pine is one of his top regional picks for a meal. “They have an amazing burger,” he says. And no wonder: it’s poached in butter, duck fat, beer, onions, and bay leaves; get the hand-cut Kennebec fries and blistered shishito peppers to go with it.
While Davila is too modest to recommend his own hotel, I can attest that the circa 1889, ultra-luxe Hotel Jerome unequivocally has the best-tasting menu in town at Prospect, a Michelin Guide restaurant. The Journey menu includes a parade of locavore dishes that you’ll think about for days after — including Montrose, Colorado, beef short ribs that are cooked sous vide for 48 hours, then served on a bed of juniper under a cloche filled with fragrant fire smoke. (It’s worth getting the Colorado beverage pairing, too; you’ll leave feeling like the Centennial state is the next Napa.)
Sure, you’ll find outposts of Hermès and Louis Vuitton in Aspen, but you can shop those brands almost anywhere. Instead, set aside time to treasure hunt in the city’s collection of thrift and consignment shops.
At the entirely volunteer-run Aspen Thrift Shop, proceeds benefit Roaring Fork Valley nonprofits; check the “boutique rack” for designer brands like Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana, Bogner, and Moncler. At consignment shop Susie’s Aspen, recent items included a pebbled calfskin Gucci tote and covetable Prada loafers. For Davila, though, the must-visit consignment store is Replay Sports in Aspen, where you’ll find truly top-notch gear, from mountain bikes to skis and snowboards.
Two other beloved local favorites include Explore Booksellers, an indie bookshop that opened in a Victorian cottage on Main street in 1975, and Rocky Mountain Pet Shop, where you can pick up everything from bio-organic food to pupsicles.
Aspen is an artsy town — and it’s got a slew of galleries to prove it. Don’t miss the brand-new Aspen Collective (located in the historic Wheeler Opera House and highlighting works by local artists) and Guadalupe Laiz, known for her stunning nature photography. If you’re in town this summer, you can bump elbows with dealers and collectors at the annual art and design fair Intersect Aspen.
Aspen is first and foremost a ski destination — no surprise considering it boasts four separate mountains to choose from, as well as 3,342 acres of terrain, 98 trails, and 21 chairlifts. While a single lift ticket covers all four, those in the know will get a $69 Uphill Pass, which you can use at all Aspen Snowmass resorts for as many days as you like. The catch? You’ll need to skin, hike, or snowshoe up the mountain and then ski down. Davila recommends Buttermilk because it’s easier to hike up, and Aspen Mountain is closed to uphillers after 9 a.m.
In summer or fall, trade snowsports for other outdoor pursuits, such as hiking the 3.6-mile trail around Crater Lake under 14,163-foot Maroon Bells. “It’s the most beautiful scenery I’ve ever seen,” Davila says. He also recommends the nearly nine-mile Hunter Creek for its stunning views and meadows, which are Crayola-bright in summer thanks to wildflowers that range from Northern paintbrush to striped coralroot orchids. For something more adrenaline-pumping, you could go whitewater rafting at the class IV Slaughterhouse Falls, known for its six-foot drop. Another delight in warm weather: taking in the celestial skies with Aspen Stargazing, which offers group and private stargazing tours using its Dobsonian Telescope.
Culture lovers should check out the Resnick Center for Herbert Beyer Studios, where current exhibits include Bauhaus typography by Kandinsky, among others, as well as the artist-founded Aspen Art Museum. Anderson Ranch Arts Center is an unmissable stop to explore five acres of outdoor sculptures; it also hosts frequent art auctions and gratis lectures. On your way out, be sure to step into the Artworks Store to shop faculty-made ceramics, jewelry, and other designs.
If you’re in Aspen for more than a few days, it’s worth exploring the surrounding towns like Basalt (famous for mountain biking trails like Cattle Creek, where you may spot elk as you ride) and Carbondale (home to geothermal Penny Hot Springs, just south of town). Glenwood Springs is further afield (almost an hour away), but it’s worth the drive to see some of its iconic sights, including the popular waterfall-fed Hanging Lake. (Note: You need to book a permit in advance to hike the steep one-mile trek there.)
Those staying in central Aspen will find that it’s incredibly walkable: much of the must-sees are within just a handful of blocks that are centered between Main Street and the slopes. You’ll need a car if you’re planning on exploring further afield (to remote trailheads, for example).
Davila’s top transportation tip: Take the local bus shuttles run by the City of Aspen. “There’s even a free RFTA bus from the airport,” he says. “They’re on time and clean, and a great way to visit Basalt, Carbondale, and Glenwood Springs.
During the “mud seasons” — typically April 15 through Memorial Day, and the first weekend of October through Thanksgiving — you’re more likely to get a hotel deal, as much of Aspen all but shuts down. There’s still plenty to do, especially in warmer months, including hiking (the 8 mile Buckskin Pass is an eye-popping way to take in a panorama of 14ers without having to actually ascend them) and biking (the Lowline Trail is great for beginners, and you’ll whirr through some unforgettable stands of aspen trees). During mud seasons, many restaurants stay open for the locals; check out Matsuhisa — the first outpost of Chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s beyond Beverly Hills — and White House Tavern, tucked in an 1883 miner’s cottage.
At the height of summer, you’ll save on hotel rates if you arrive on a Sunday and depart by Thursday, since weekends get thronged. Note that the Hotel Jerome is currently offering a “Summer Longer” package; you can save up to 30% on a six-night stay. (Plus, kids under 10 eat free at the Jerome all summer long.)
Plenty of other ultra-pampering hotels also have summer deals. Set slopeside, The Little Nell has an Aspen Adventure package that includes a $1,000 adventure credit and $250 food and beverage credit with every three night stay, while the St. Regis Aspen Resort provides a $100 daily credit for stays of three nights or more.