In mid-2017, as sleek Formula 1 racecars whizzed around at breakneck speed on narrow streets during the inaugural Azerbaijan Grand Prix, it was difficult not to notice the massive medieval stone walls and towers of Baku's old city. Running through both the ancient and modern parts of town — on one of the only anti-clockwise circuits in the Grand Prix line-up — the race had attracted motorsport fans from all over the world, and the city's transformation from being an iconic Silk Road outpost to a present-day cultural capital seemed complete. Since then, Buku has only gotten more enticing for visitors.

Located at the crossroads of Eastern and Western influences — including Zoroastrian, Arabic, Persian, Ottoman, and Russian — Baku's ability to effortlessly blend modernity with history is immediately evident from the moment you land at the swanky airport, where you're greeted by artwork showcasing Azeri (Azerbaijani) culture. The opulent Flame Towers, the graceful lines of the expansive Heydar Aliyev cultural center, and the whimsical curves of the Azerbaijan Carpet Museum mesmerize visitors with stunning contemporary architecture, but sit comfortably overlooking the vast and walled old city — Icherisheher — where time seems to stand still. Between the old and new are hidden jazz bars, book stores, and cafes and restaurants dishing out delectable fare featuring Azeri and international cuisines.

The city's waterfront location on the Caspian Sea, from where brisk breezes sweep through year-round, has earned it the moniker of "City of Winds." But winds of change have always swept through this ancient city, where a mix of European and Asian influences has made it one of the most culturally vibrant cities in the Caucasus region. Here's everything you need to know for planning a trip.

What to See in the Ancient City

Baku's beating heart is Icherisheher (literally meaning "old/inner" city), a UNESCO World Heritage Site dating back to the 12th century. It is a lovely maze of cobbled streets with ancient stone houses that sit cheek by jowl with beautiful wooden balconies spilling over with a riot of colorful flowers.

Within the old city are several landmarks, such as the Shirvanshah's Palace; Maiden Tower, the oldest structure in the walled city; St Bartholomew Church; and the 15th-century Haji Bani Hammam bathhouse. There are also pretty caravanserais, ancient inns from when Baku was an important stop on the Silk Road that are now filled with enchanting boutiques and souvenir shops. Tucked away in these buildings — built over several centuries in a mélange of architectural styles — are hidden gems such as the Museum of Miniature Books, a must-visit place for bibliophiles.

What to See in the Modern City

It is quite difficult to miss the arresting fluid lines of the stark white Heyder Aliyev Center located almost in the center of Baku, a constant presence while crisscrossing the city. Set on rolling green lawns, it is part homage to the country's former influential president, part exhibition space, and part spectacle. The second floor hosts a permanent exhibition of miniatures of some of Azerbaijan's famous buildings.

Closer to the waterfront is the imposing Azerbaijan Carpet Museum, designed to look like a massive rolled-up carpet. Inside, the history of Azerbaijan carpet-making is told through an extensive and stunning display of carpets, along with exhibits on looms, weaving methods, and the culture surrounding carpet-making. A live display of artisans weaving carpets is the cherry on top. Afterward, the short walk from the museum to the boulevard along the waterfront is a rewarding break. Though almost a century old, the European influence — with Venetian gondolas and sidewalk cafes — is unmistakable.

No matter where you go in Baku, the city's most iconic modern symbol — the Flame Towers — follows you around. This set of three skyscrapers of differing heights with straight and curved glass facades are located at one of the highest points of the city; however, the sight is best viewed at night when the facades turn into screens for dynamic displays of fire, water, and other visuals including Azerbaijan's national flag.

Fun Fact: A City of Fire

Baku's other epithet is the "City of Fire," owing to two famous landmarks, one manmade and the other natural. The Ateshgah, or fire temple, is a beautiful stone structure that dates back to the 18th century and has an eternal flame burning inside it. While the temple has had overlapping religious influences as a Zoroastrian, Hindu, and Sikh place of worship, it's considered sacred by Zoroastrians. Yanardag, located outside the city near Absheron Peninsula, is a hill that has been burning from natural gas for several thousand years and is a surreal sight.

What to Eat

Azerbaijan's position in the middle of the ancient Silk Road has meant that its cuisine is a glorious mix of influences spanning from China in the East to the Mediterranean in the West, with Indian, Iranian, Middle Eastern, and Turkish flavors thrown into the cauldron. Though the food tends to be meat-heavy, it's accompanied by a gamut of fresh vegetables, herbs, and dips.

Sirvansah Musey Restaurant in Kubinka, one of the city's oldest neighborhoods, features traditional regional dishes, including dolmas, qutab (rolled dough filled with spinach and cheese), saj (hot griddle bread loaded with vegetables, chicken, and lamb), and lamb plov (a pilaf-like rice dish).

Inside the walled city are a couple of lovely dining spots, such as Qaynana, which serves dovga (yogurt soup with chickpeas) and shah plov (saffron rice with apricots and lamb baked in filo pastry). At Qala Divari, start with piti (lamb soup) followed by fluffy bread to scoop up roasted lamb pieces or lamb stew and plov. Be sure to end with some pakhlava (Azeri baklava) for dessert and dark tea, which is always accompanied by jellied fruit.

Also try Sumakh (decorated with Azeri artifacts on its walls) for its dolma, kebab, and piti, and Firuze (located in an underground tunnel-like structure) for its traditional dishes such as plov, as well as Georgian and Italian selections.

Where to Stay

Over the last few years, Baku has been attracting global hospitality brands. Fairmont Baku, located in the Flame Towers, provides stunning day and nighttime views of the city, while Four Seasons Baku overlooks the beautiful Caspian Sea. But for a truly local experience, opt for Shah Palace with its arresting interiors and architecture, or ART Gallery Hotel in the center of the city, which is a lovely combination of plush comfort amidst a profusion of classic and contemporary art.

When to Go

While summer (June through August) can get quite warm with temperature highs between 27 and 34 degrees Celsius (about 80 and 93 degrees Fahrenheit), there are music festivals taking place such as the Baku International Jazz Festival, International Mugham Festival, and Mstislav Rostropovich International Music Festival — and, of course, the Azerbaijan Grand Prix. April to May and September to November are quite pleasant with temperatures of about 15-20 degrees Celsius (about 60-70 degrees Fahrenheit). November can be very wet, while December to March can get quite cool at about 2-8 degrees Celsius (about 35-45 degrees Fahrenheit).

How to Get There

Several international airlines fly to Baku with connections through Europe and the Middle East.

Know Before You Go

Baku is called the "City of Winds" for a reason, so be prepared. Apart from peak summer months, the weather can be unpredictable so always carry an extra light jacket or stole.

Combine With

Consider extending your trip to Baku to explore other parts of Azerbaijan, such as the UNESCO World Heritage "silk" city of Sheki, the charming town of Quba known for carpet-making, or Gabala for its outdoor beauty and ski resorts.