In the heart of France, 200 kilometers (about 124 miles) east of Bordeaux, Périgord has long been synonymous with black gold: Aromatic Tuber melanosporum, aka Périgord truffles, which are one of the most expensive ingredients in the world.
The region's chalky soils are naturally well-suited to truffles, but it took the 19th-century devastation wrought by phylloxera, which wiped out half of the country's vineyards, for the fungus to really take hold. Once newly barren fields were replanted with truffle oaks, the cultivated truffle industry flourished… until World War I brought the golden era to a screeching halt, taking over 10,000 local lives and devastating the land.
These days, there's an old-meets-new vibe in the Périgord. Old-school truffle hunting has resurfaced, but now it coexists with innovations like truffled burgers or truffle-infused wine. And seeing as the area is also home to many of the official Plus Beaux Villages de France (Most Beautiful Villages of France), there's more than enough to explore here.
Where to Hunt for Truffles
Périgord truffles do not obey geographic delineations, especially seeing as technically speaking, the Périgord no longer exists: Following the French Revolution, it was renamed the Dordogne. Semantics aside, the terroir conducive to truffle cultivation actually extends into the former province of Quercy to the south and east, now comprising the modern Lot départment as well as parts of the Tarn-et-Garonne, Aveyron, and Corrèze. Truffle hunting may lead you, then, as far south as Carcassonne, as far north as Périgueux, as far east as Aurillac, and as far west as Monbazillac.
Truffles are elusive, especially to the naked eye. Truffle hunters once capitalized on hogs' love of their aroma, which isn't dissimilar to pig pheromones, but these days, according to Sylvie Bois, President of the Fédération Française des Trufficulteurs, most use trained dogs. "I only know one person still hunting with pigs," she says. But a patient truffle hunter can track down their prize armed with just a stick, which, when passed carefully over the land, disturbs truffle flies that lay their eggs on the fungi, showing the hunter exactly where the truffle is hiding.
But don't go thinking you can traipse into any wood with a stick to find your prize. For one, truffles prefer sun-baked fields to dense forests; for another, in the Dordogne, explains Bois, all truffle hunting takes place on private property.
Perhaps one of the best places for visitors to track them down, then, is a truffle market. Lalbenque's is the largest in the Lot and one of the region's oldest, founded in 1961 and held at 3 p.m. on Tuesdays from mid-December to mid-March. In the Dordogne's Sarlat-le-Canéda, meanwhile, Bois reigns over the Saturday morning truffle market, which coincides with a farmer's market that spills out from the former Sainte-Marie church, now a covered market, into the square.
In stark contrast to the luxe appeal of their wares, it's in a space resembling a high school classroom that hopeful sellers arrive at from 8 a.m. to have their cleaned, brushed truffles examined and graded: Category 1 truffles weigh more than 10 grams (about 0.35 ounces) and are devoid of flaws, while Category 2 are smaller and may be slightly misshapen, though they're just as delicious. And any truffles with major flaws such as the white interior that shows they're not quite ripe or a woodsy texture that shows they may have been subjected to frost are refused entirely. An hour later, the market opens and runs until noon, thanks to a motley crew of around a dozen part-time truffle hunters. Many, Bois says, are retirees or have second jobs; she herself is also a biology teacher. "No one lives off of truffles."
Prices vary, with a spike at Christmastime. In mid-January, sellers sought 700 to 900 euros a kilo; a generously sized truffle could be had for just 35 euros (around $36).
If your visit doesn't coincide with a market, go straight to the source. Trufficulture got its start in the area at the end of the 18th century when Pierre II Mauléon discovered the symbiosis between the truffle oak and the fungus. But while many try to follow in his footsteps, truffles are infamously difficult to grow. One first mycorrhizes the oaks with T. melanosporum, inoculating either the soil or the roots of the trees with the fungus, before planting them at a good distance from one another. It can take anywhere from seven to 12 years before any truffles appear, and even then, cautions Bois, only about 20-25% of trees bear fruit.
Learn about these methods at farms like La Ferme de la Truffe in Cuzance, where father-daughter team Serge Delbut and Delphine Vigne invite visitors onto their 130-hectare plantation to delve into the ancestral art. Eight euros per adult grants you access to a 1.5 hour truffle hunt. While the explanation happens in French, posters offer details in English, and you won't need translation to convey the excitement of digging up a nugget. (Reservations are required.)
In Saint-Céré, 40 kilometers (about 25 miles) away, three generations of the Boris family have welcomed visitors to the biodynamic Ferme des Sentiers du Diamant Noir. Visit in summer months, when truffles lay dormant, to dive into an exhibit tracing the truffle from prehistory to present day. Summer visitors may also venture to Sorges, where the Ecomusée de la Truffe, housed in a 19th-century farm, charts the fungus' regional roots and boasts a lovely boutique selling a pear-truffle jam, the fruit of years of research into how to better preserve truffles.
What to See
When you're not truffle-hunting, meander the local villages, many of which are official Most Beautiful Villages of France. The network of nearly 200 French towns was founded in 1982 in Collonges la Rouge (Collonges the Red), aptly named for the stone rich in iron oxide comprising its manor houses and church. Stop by the tourism office for a map to guide you along a 1.5-hour stroll in and around the town.
Medieval Martel is known for its seven towers and fairytale cobbled streets. Visit on Wednesdays and Saturdays to take advantage of the 18th-century covered market, and in spring and summer, hop on the steam train that runs on tracks previously used to shuttle truffles out of the region. Dramatic Rocamadour is carved out of the side of a rocky cliff; follow the path of countless pilgrims up the 216 steps to reach the wooden Black Madonna, and be sure to duck into the unique chapel devoted to the local love of rugby.
Where to Eat
Finding truffles is one thing; eating them is another. For experts like Bois, simplicity is the mot d'ordre. She suggests pairing them with buttered bread, scrambled eggs, or mashed potatoes. "When you have a more sophisticated dish," she cautions, "you have a harder time zeroing in on the truffle flavor."
This can be to the advantage of unscrupulous restaurateurs, who, she says, often dress up Chinese truffles (Tuber indicum) with truffle oil — "even in Sarlat." These truffles native to India and parts of China may resemble Périgord truffles, but they're far from being as aromatic as the real thing. One sure bet is the cozy Le Petit Bistrot's homestyle truffle deviled eggs or linguine with truffle cream. At the dazzling Domaine de Monrecour, just 10 minutes away, feast on black truffle risotto with bone marrow or truffled local capon, and rest assured that, according to Bois, they're "vigilant" about sourcing.
Many truffle farms also boast on-site restaurants. Such is the case at the Domaine de Vielcroze in Castelnaud La Chapelle, where in spring and summer, an al fresco lunch may feature a truffle croque monsieur or a warm goat cheese salad sprinkled with organic walnuts grown on-site. At the Ferme de la Truffe, meanwhile, visitors can take full advantage of a homestyle meal prepared with care by Delphine Vigne.
"I'm not a chef," she says. "I'm a farmer who's become a cook to showcase my products." Her approach does indeed depart from tradition: Guests reserve their menu in advance to keep from wasting her farm-raised pork, lamb, walnuts, and, of course, truffles. The latter feature generously in a rich, creamy scramble, as well as in an innovative Apéritruffe, a truffle-infused sweet wine. Her hearty burger sees a local beef patty piled with truffle cream, duck foie gras, and truffles.
Fans of truffle cheese should pay a visit to Sarlat's Chez Pierrô, where the team splits a whole Brie de Meaux and smears it generously with mascarpone infused with wild Périgord truffles. The cheese is aged for five to seven days before being sold to ensure the aroma of the truffle permeates each and every mouthful.
Where to Stay
Medieval Sarlat-la-Canéda is remarkably well-preserved, with 77 protected monuments within its city walls. Its status as a tourism hub is a boon for winter visitors, when the truffle trade is booming, but some smaller towns shutter entirely. Sleep in the castle-like La Couleuvrine, located in a former tower of the 15th-century rampart, or take advantage of the Domaine de Monrecour's 12 hectares of gardens and two heated pools. For a more bucolic experience, reserve the tiny house on the property at the Ferme de la Truffe, perfect for stargazing.
How to Get to the Périgord
Perigueux, Bergerac, and Brive-la-Gaillarde are reachable by train from Paris; smaller TER trains link these towns to villages like Sarlat-le-Canéda. Sarlat is also reachable by train from Bordeaux, home to an international airport.
The Bergerac Dordogne Périgord airport in Bergerac links the region to major U.K. hubs, while the newly opened Brive airport offers budget services within France and the U.K.
The Best Time to Go
While summer in the Périgord is perfect for sightseeing, truffle hunters should visit in winter. Not only are truffle markets typically open from December to March, but many towns will throw a weekend-long truffle fête for even more opportunities to sample the local delicacy.
What to Know Before You Go
- Truffles have a very short shelf life — about 15 days, at best. The exception is truffle honey, which preserves the flavor of the truffle wonderfully.
- You'll need cash at truffle markets; generally, no credit cards are accepted.
- Despite the preponderance of Chinese truffles masquerading as the real thing, know that restaurateurs are legally obligated to share what kind of truffle they're serving. Look for T. Melanosporum (Périgord truffle), and steer clear of T. indicum (Chinese truffle). Local T. brumale is a bit less aromatic than T. Melanosporum, though it maintains its intensity better when cooked.
Combine With
Extend a Périgord journey with a trip to Bordeaux, to taste the local wines, and explore the beautiful medieval village of Saint-Emilion. Or, head to Limoges, the heart of France's porcelain industry, where famed Impressionist artist Pierre-Auguste Renoir got his start painting not with canvas but china.