A single road winds through Denali National Park like a river snaking through the wilderness. Historically, tour buses have followed its 92 miles to Kantishna, a small settlement near Wonder Lake. This changed in 2021 when the Pretty Rocks Landslide forced officials to close the road at mile 43. Although there isn’t a firm date for re-opening, park officials expect the road will remain closed until at least 2026. 

While this decreased access is certainly a loss, it also creates a unique window of opportunity to experience the Denali backcountry without the tour buses and crowds. 

How is this possible if the road is closed? Via helicopter. 

In response to the Pretty Rocks Landslide, Denali Backcountry Lodge, the most upscale resort in the area, added helicopter transfers to its all-inclusive pricing (there are two other properties in the backcountry currently flying in guests via bush planes. However, these options are far more rustic — one of the resorts even lacks indoor plumbing). 

I recently had a chance to visit the Denali Backcountry Lodge to explore the park with just a handful of other visitors. 

The Journey Begins With Gorgeous Aerial Views and Rare Sights

Courtesy of Denali Backcountry Lodge

Helicopters travel lower than airplanes, providing an intimate look at Denali National Park’s astonishing beauty on the flight to the lodge. We flew above a kingdom of meadows, forests, rivers, and mountain ranges. At one point, we gazed down at a solitary moose standing in a lake. 

The Denali Backcountry Lodge experience is limited to up to 24 guests and 17 were scheduled over the same three nights as myself. We were handed our cabin keys when we disembarked from the helicopters. 

My cabin was cozy but with minimal décor, featuring rustic cedar walls, a sofa, a table, and a plush, pillowtop mattress that lulled me to sleep at night. There are several cabin configurations — my bathroom had a walk-in shower while others also had bathtubs — but all were stocked with fluffy towels and local artisan bath products. I had a lovely view of Moose Creek, and some cabins even have private decks near the banks. Daily housekeeping and turn-down service were provided. I was in the wilderness, but I certainly wasn’t roughing it. 

The All-Inclusive Experience Lacked Nothing

Courtesy of Denali Backcountry Lodge

A typical day here starts with a made-to-order breakfast. Despite being worlds away from the nearest grocery store, the menu included a range of fresh options like avocado toast, yogurt with housemade granola, and omelets with local ingredients like salmon or reindeer sausage. Lunch was no less appealing with selections like sandwiches, homemade soup, burgers, and salads (I highly recommend the Dutch Harbor BLT with crab salad and Boars Head bacon on sourdough). If you get hungry between meals (or even in the middle of the night) the main lodge is open 24 hours a day and allows guests to help themselves to freshly baked pastries, fruit, or packaged snacks. 

Dinner is a multi-course affair with salad, bread, and a choice of three main entrees. Throughout my stay, I feasted on salmon, steak, and scallops, but vegan meals like spinach and artichoke falafel looked equally delicious. Dessert was always elaborate, especially the last night’s tableside presentation of Baked Alaska flambé. A full bar and wine list are available for an additional charge. 

Courtesy of Tamara Gane

Sign-up sheets are posted by the door of the main lodge for guests to select activities. Included activities range from guided hikes and fly fishing to paddleboarding, kayaking, and biking. Guests can also enjoy naturalist talks or relaxing in the riverfront hot tub or wood-fired saunas. 

Courtesy of Tamara Gane

Perhaps the most unexpected amenity was the creekside spa, The Nest Wellness Center. Although spa treatments aren’t included in the all-inclusive package I couldn’t resist the opportunity to treat myself to a little pampering after a morning hike. The spa was warm and inviting with minimal décor and rustic cedar walls like the cabin. A wood stove in the corner added such a homey touch that I felt relaxed before my massage even started. The menu of services included treatments focused on achy hiking muscles, migraines, and feet, as well as deep tissue massages. I selected a traditional hot stone massage and quickly fell asleep underneath expert hands and smooth, warm, rocks. 

Enjoying Denali National Park Without the Crowds Is a Once-in-a-Lifetime Opportunity

Courtesy of Tamara Gane

At 20,310 feet high, Denali is the tallest mountain in North America. It’s so large that it has the capacity to manifest its own weather. It isn’t unusual to see the mountain completely cloaked by clouds, as was the case on my first afternoon at Denali Backcountry Lodge: The views were still phenomenal. The mist looming across the mountain has its own kind of mysterious beauty, especially when the clouds hang above Wonder Lake. 

The next day was clear. I started the morning at Reflection Pond, captivated by the image of Denali photographed on water. It was so peaceful I could hear the sound of the breeze caressing the wildflowers at my feet. This, I realized, was a privilege. Normally this area would be full of visitors but the nearby Wonder Lake Campground is closed until the road reopens.  For this moment in time, these views are only available to a lucky few. 

Throughout my stay at Denali Backcountry Lodge, where I hiked, biked, kayaked, panned for gold, and walked the shores of Wonder Lake and Reflection Pond, I never saw a soul aside from my fellow hotel guests. While I’m eager for the road to reopen so more people can make memories in this magical place, I’m glad I could visit when such a thing was possible. It was almost like having a national park to myself.

Know Before You Go:

Courtesy of Denali Backcountry Lodge