Evian-les-Bains has a certain je ne sais quoi that elicits relaxation and rejuvenation. It must be something in the water.

Indeed, the French town on the shores of Lake Geneva (technically called Lac Léman) is where the eponymous mineral water source was discovered in 1789. Since then, it’s become a recreational spot for wellness seekers making a pilgrimage to soak in its thermal baths and luxuriate in restorative spa treatments. But it’s so much more, with skiing, sailing, hiking, and other outdoor pursuits, as well as multiple hotels and resorts and a new spa launched by the beloved water brand, Evian, itself. And with Switzerland just a short ferry ride across the lake, it easily lends itself to a two-fer vacation.

Here’s how to plan the perfect trip to Evian-les-Bains:

What to Do

Les Thermes evian, the brand’s mineral spa, offers various medically-focused packages that center on pain relief, digestive disorders, cellulite, and more. Of course, they all use the local water. With only eight treatment rooms devoted to beauty and massages (as well as a sauna, steam rooms, and a cryotherapy machine) you’ll have to plan ahead. Currently, there’s a year-long waiting list for an appointment.

Take a pilgrimage to Source Cachat, one of two springs in town where the mineral water flows directly from mountain to tap. Bring your water bottle and queue up at the spot that’s both a glorified water fountain and a photo op: The spigot’s elaborate backsplash is a colorful mosaic of flowers. Note that you might be waiting behind locals toting all of their vessels to replenish their household H2O supply.

 

Take in views of this picturesque part of France that’s perched on the water and adjacent to the Alps’ imposing, craggy peaks from the free funicular (affectionately called “the little Evian metro”), which departs every 20 minutes and can take you to and from town via six stations (the ride is approximately 10 minutes). During the summer, a bar awaits at the top.

The Thollon-les-Mémises ski area is only 15 minutes away, boasting 31 miles of downhill skiing and 18 ski lifts. (The more impressive Les Portes du Soleil, one of the largest ski areas in Europe, is just a 45-minute drive away by car.) In the off-season, the area offers many opportunities for breathing in the fresh mountain air. Ride the gondola, then hike to the summit to the Cross of Mont Bénand, a landmark that offers views of the Swiss towns of Lausanne and Morges. (The mountains’ silhouette also forms the iconic logo on Evian bottles.) Stay for lunch at Les Balcons du Lac, whose vistas accompany bubbling pots of cheese fondue served with cornichons, bread and charcuterie, and glasses of local Chasselas.

Make an appointment to tour the Evian plant, which produces 7 million bottles per day that are exported to 140 countries. Both the two- and four-hour guided “Evian Experiences” include a tour of the certified carbon-neutral bottling plant, information about the company’s sustainability initiatives and production secrets, and an interactive gallery. The longer tour also takes you to Gavot Plateau, where the water begins its more than 15-year journey through its geological filter beneath the former glaciers that covered the region more than 50,000 years ago, as well as the aforementioned Source Cachat.

A day trip to Switzerland is easily doable via a 40-minute ferry ride from Evian that takes you to Lausanne, the town where the International Olympic Committee is headquartered. At the Olympic Museum, learn about the history of ancient and modern Games, stroll through exhibits displaying different torches over the years and famous athletes’ uniforms, and watch video clips of some of the most memorable events. Afterward, tour the Lausanne Cathedral, considered one of the best examples of Gothic architecture in Europe, or buy chocolate at Blondel or one of the many other chocolatiers in town. Cap off the day by having fondue and cocktails while the sun sets over the lake at the indoor/outdoor rooftop Skylounge at the Royal Savoy Hotel & Spa.

Where to Eat

The sunny dining room of La Véranda at the Hotel Royal is a perfect lunch spot, where tables overlook the lake and there’s an all-day menu of seasonal French cuisine with local ingredients. Standouts include an organic egg over Beluga lentils topped with smoked raclette espuma, cod with butternut squash and shellfish jus, and tenderloin beef with potatoes, girolle mushrooms, and butter.

Also at the Hotel Royal overlooking the lake, Les Fresques is a one-Michelin-star restaurant helmed by chef Patrice Vander. The entire space feels special, but the highlight is the domed ceiling adorned by frescoes painted by Art Nouveau artist Gustave Jaulmes. (A mirror on the front of your menu is a playful way to remind you to look up.) You can order à la carte, but more fun is selecting one of the tasting menus offered. Courses may include the restaurant’s signature perch on a warm stone with cider reduction and foie gras-stuffed Bresse chicken with fine herbs, leg confit, and vin jaune (a type of dry, white wine). The French-focused wine list is literally a tome, brought to the table along with a stand to hold it, and has plenty of options from the nearby Haute-Savoie region.

A cozy bistro spot for lunch or dinner, La Table at the Hôtel Ermitage focuses on local foods and purveyors like lake fish caught by the Pecquery family and cheese from Chalets d’Oche Farm. The best way to explore it is through the three-course “Market Menu,” which offers dishes like saffron-stuffed seabream with onion and potato mousse or Noir de Bourgogne (black currant) chicken cooked at a low temperature with mustard seeds and root vegetables. There’s also a fun menu of spritzes, including one with Génépi, an Alpine French herbal liqueur.  

At Terrasse du Baron, a modern brasserie with a contemporary French slant, a composed salad comes topped with succulent crayfish, dill, and avocado puree and a crispy skin Arctic char is bathed in a buttery sauce studded with caviar. If you still have room, there’s an entire menu of ice cream sundaes as well as a frozen parfait made with herbal green Chartreuse. 

For something more casual and convivial, Umberto is known for its wood-fired pizzas topped with everything from burrata, olives, and basil to smoked salmon, capers, and arugula. There are also shareable antipasti and salads, risottos, and pastas, and the massive tiramisu monogrammed with a cocoa dust “U” is not to be skipped.

Speaking of desserts, there are several sweet options in town. Glacier du Léman, a family-owned business headquartered in Champagne, serves sorbets, ice cream, crepes, and waffles. Glacier Chocolatier Pâtissier has delectable ice cream flavor combinations like blueberry and timut pepper and pineapple and clove, along with globally-inspired French pastries and artisanal chocolate. And Couleur Café is a buzzy spot for breakfast, lunch, or coffee with an assortment of cakes.

Where to Shop

Stroll down Rue Nationale and you’ll find boutiques selling clothing, jewelry, chocolate, wine, and souvenirs. The local outpost of family-owned Carnaby offers trend-forward women’s attire, and the staff has a keen eye for suggesting pieces that match your taste and style. Head to Boutique Passé-Présent for home goods and one-of-a-kind gifts. For wine, look for a chalkboard sign on the sidewalk with a picture of the owner and the selection of current bottles at La Cave à Paul, or head to Les Cavistes Gourmands for a curated selection as well as provisions like cheese and charcuterie to pack for a picnic by the lake. 

You can’t leave Evian-les-Bains without some branded merchandise. The tourism office has a small selection of water bottles, magnets, keychains, baseball caps, stuffed animals, and books about the famous mineral water; there’s also a shop at Les themes evian (the mineral baths) that sells t-shirts and sweatshirts. 

Where To Enjoy Nightlife

Though Evian-les-Bain isn’t exactly an area known for its nightlife, there are several bars to grab a drink before dinner or a nightcap before you return to your hotel. Mr. Maurice has the craftiest sips in town, with a menu of classic and original cocktails like an Elderflower Fizz and Vanilla Old Fashioned; there’s also a customizable spritz menu and a selection of regional beers and wines. Le Cercle overlooks the casino and is tucked below its massive dome, and its namesake cocktail tops apricot juice and peach puree with Champagne. Oh 2 Bobets is known for its cozy, welcoming vibe, local selection of brews, and live music.  

Where to Stay

The dreamy five-star Hôtel Royal is arguably Evian-les-Bains’ poshest property. Part of the Evian Resort, it was built in honor of King Edward VII of England, and now seamlessly blends Belle Epoque elements with contemporary design. Over the years, the hotel has welcomed movie stars, royalty, writers, and poets including Queen Elizabeth II, Greta Garbo, Ringo Starr, and Marcel Proust, drawn to its lush grounds and enviable location overlooking Lac Léman. (The hotel also hosted the 2003 G8 Summit.) Sumptuous rooms have marble bathrooms and furnished balconies that face either the park or the lake, and tout amenities like Evian Facial Spray and Evian water. There’s a private shuttle to take you to town as well as an onsite sport and culture center where you can book excursions such as hiking, skiing, and boating. Oh, and the massive lettered sign in the front of the hotel that spells out “Evian” is a must-do photo opp.

This past spring, the hotel opened Europe’s first evian®Spa, an expansive wellness area inspired by the life cycle of the world-famous water. One unique option is a Le Minéral massage that uses talc instead of the more traditional oil. Hôtel Royal guests have access to wellness facilities (which include an indoor pool, several whirlpools, a large outdoor hydrotherapy whirlpool, a sauna, a steam room, a cold plunge pool, and a snow room) during their stay and can take a dedicated elevator directly to the spa. 

Nearby, Hôtel Ermitage is the resort’s four-star property geared more toward families. The design is elegant with a subtle Art Deco focus that includes bold geometric patterns and sleek furnishings with metallic accents. Rooms include warm wood elements, plush fabrics with pops of vibrant jewel tones, and natural stone-tiled showers; many are outfitted with a sofa bed or extra bed, and suites can be interconnected. Amenities and activities keep children top of mind, including a dedicated swimming pool with a lifeguard, babysitting services, baby-care equipment, and nature activities. The Spa Quatre Terres bases its rituals and treatments on four pure elements — clay, stones, crystals, and earth extracts — and kids can even get their own facials with organic TooFruit® products.

Golfers can book one of the eight rooms at Le Manoir du Golf, the estate adjacent to the Evian Resort Golf Club & Academy — it’s the site of the annual Amundi Evian Championship, the only major tournament in continental Europe. The Academy has a training center, pro shop, and driving range. Le Manoir du Golf was built in 1908 as a family home and feels like an English clubhouse thanks to dark leather and wood furnishings. Its Le Chalet restaurant has a pretty terrace and casual fare that includes croque-monsieur sandwiches, Caesar salad, and a smoked trout bowl.

The Best Time To Go

Your preferred activities will dictate the time of year best suited for your trip. Skiers will want to go during winter; if you want to swim and sail, you’re better off waiting for summer, though it’s the most crowded then. Fall is a glorious time when it’s still mild and the leaves are changing; ditto for spring, and both seasons offer ample opportunities for outside activities like hiking and boating. Of course, if you plan on soaking up all the time you can in the spa, anytime is divine. (Keep in mind that if you want to get an appointment at Les Thermes evian, you need to book at least a year in advance.) 

How To Get to Evian-les-Bains

To visit Evian-les-Bains, you’ll first fly into Geneva; after you arrive you have several options to get to town, including a rental car, car service, or taxi, all of which take about an hour and twenty minutes, depending on traffic. You can also take a train from the Geneva Airport station, transfer at Geneva or Annemasse, and arrive at Gare Evian-les-Bains; that journey will take around an hour and a half to two hours, with a transfer.

If you’re already across the lake in Lausanne, there’s a 40-minute ferry directly to the port of Evian-les-Bains.