The Ganges River is called the Mother Ganges for a reason — it is said that bathing in her holy waters purifies the soul and washes sins away. And each day, as we watched from the main deck of our small ship, the Ganges Voyager II, we saw her shoreline residents bathing and washing their animals and their clothes in its caramel-colored currents.
To the West Bengalis who live along the river flowing from the western Himalayas to the Bay of Bengal, it is a lifeline for commerce, agriculture, and ritual; twice during our cruise, we witnessed small funeral ceremonies where loved ones burned the bodies of the recently deceased to prepare for a send-off into the river. It was moments like these that gave Uniworld’s Sacred Ganges cruise an exclusive window into a way of life that most mainstream India itineraries miss.
It's not a mischaracterization to say that India is not for the faint of heart, which is why a river cruise might be the perfect gateway for travelers wanting to see a lesser-known part of the country. The eight-day roundtrip sailing begins in the nation’s former capital, Kolkata, and heads north. As soon as you cross under India’s busiest bridge, the Howrah Bridge, and leave the bustling city behind, a calmness ensues, and the landscape slowly melts from urban to rural. (There is an optional land portion to the cruise itinerary that includes New Delhi, Jaipur, and Varanasi.)
With a capacity of only 56 passengers in double-occupancy staterooms, the ship offers all the comforts of a well-appointed floating hotel, including top-tier cuisine and 5-star service, but with the intimacy of your own private yacht. Teak decks, wrought-iron balustrades and traditional hand-painted wall designs evoke the cultural history of our host country, and each suite — even the base-level Signature Suite — feels spacious with large bathrooms, ample storage, king-size four-poster beds, and a small seating area with a French balcony. Because so few cruise lines sail this route, the journey feels both peaceful and invigorating, allowing for reflection of oneself and the wider world while visiting these less-explored parts of India.
The cruise has six stops, each one giving passengers access to villages, towns, and small cities not easily accessible by land transport. These immersive off-boat excursions account for about a third of the voyage, which for me — younger than the average age of guests who book the Sacred Ganges River cruise — is a little less than I’d hoped for. But for the hotter months, it’s easy to see why they keep the adventures to under two hours, as temperatures can reach into the upper 90s in September and March, the first and last sail dates of this itinerary.
One of the first onshore trips we embark on is a visit to the Naba Kailash Mandir in Kalna City. The two concentric circles of 108 Shiva temples — an auspicious number in Hinduism and Buddhism — were built in 1809, and they give a serene view into Hindu worship on a quiet misty morning. I take the time to stand quietly in one of the small domes, praying in my own way to the Shiva Lingham, a symbol of fertility.
Next up is the town of Matiari, where we learn about the century-old production of transforming scrap metal into household items and jewelry by local artisans. Every single guest buys at least a couple of small trinkets, and I purchase multiple smooth brass bracelets, many small decorative bowls, two plates engraved in intricate designs, and a little elephant. If I didn’t have to watch my luggage’s weight, much more would have come home with me.
In Baranagar, on another excursion, we tour a rural village known for its terracotta temples at Char Bangla Temple Complex built in 1755 by a wealthy female landowner, Rani Bhabani. It’s the only place in the country, we’re told, where you can find a carving of the legendary Hindu sea creature the Makara, as depicted as the river goddess Ganga mounted atop a crocodile. Afterward, the ship’s staff play a game of cricket as the sun sets and we get to join in for a bowl or two, though their cricket skills are far superior.
Other stops include Murshidabad’s Katra Mosque and the colonial museum, Hazaduari Palace; Mayapur’s brand new Hare Krishna Temple, which has been infused with billions of dollars from Henry Ford’s great-grandson, Alfred Ford; a walk through the Khusbagh “Garden of Happiness,” which is a garden and graveyard created by the first Nawab of Bengal, Nawab Alivardi Khan Nawabs; and a full day in Kolkata that includes an exhilarating outing to the famed flower market and the option to visit Mother Theresa’s home and tomb or the NGO Calcutta Rescue.
Back on the ship, during sailing times, I made use of the small onboard gym and indulged in reasonably priced spa treatments. I also practiced sunrise and sunset yoga on the observation deck, which is offered daily by Anuška, who moved to India two decades ago to study yoga and never left. For more intellectual enlightenment, we had talks on Ayurvedic medicine and foods, learned how to make Masala tea, tried on saris and turbans, received henna tattoos, and watched incredible performances from local Kathak dancers.
Throughout the entire week, Head Chef Agniva Kapat served up both regional delights and international staples using locally sourced ingredients, boasting a vast breakfast and lunch buffet and multiple a la carte options for dinner, like Himalayan trout and Nolen Gur Coconut Pitha for dessert. However, if youwanted pasta and red sauce or a plain chicken breast and veggies, that was available. But why would you when the vast array of Indian food on offer — far from the Chicken Tikka Masala at your local takeout — titillated the taste buds and opened up our palates to dishes we would never be able to get back home.
The staff of 36, hailing from Kolkata and New Delhi, avail themselves for engaging conversations about India’s past, politics, industry, and culture. Tour Manager Vishal Bhaskar offers this advice to guests, most of whom are adventurous retirees from Australia and North America: “Talk to us; ask us questions. Don’t keep it in and then take it back to your country.”
The Best Time to Take a Cruise on the Ganges River:
The Sacred Ganges itinerary only sails from late September to mid-March. There’s good reason for that: the weather. In general, visiting West Bengal is best in the autumn and winter because the monsoon season is in July and August. Also, temperatures hover around the 80s and 90s from September to November and then drop to the 70s from December to February. From March to August, you’re looking at mid-90s and above. And with climate change, these temperatures are a little bit more extreme (Kolkata hit record temps at 109 degrees recently). I took the cruise in early February and there were several days where it was overcast and upper 60s/low 70s, so a light sweater or pants were needed.
How to Get There:
Prices for the cruise do not include flights if you’re booking from the U.S., though they are included on bookings made from the U.K. From the States, there are one-stopover flights to Kolkata from San Francisco, Los Angeles, New York City, Boston, and Seattle. The layover can occur in Qatar, Delhi, Dubai, Abu Dhabi, or Mumbai, and prices start at around $900. Once you land in Kolkata, Uniworld takes over and picks you up from the airport, brings you to a hotel or port depending on arrival day and time, and provides the same transportation services at the end of the journey.
Know Before You Go:
- Though none of the off-boat excursions require specific uniforms, you will be visiting plenty of religious or sacred sites, and respect is warranted. Bring lightweight, breathable long-sleeved shirts, pants, and scarves so that you can cover up when it feels appropriate. But otherwise, moisture-wicking fabrics and cotton are best to stay comfortable in the warm weather. Sunglasses and hats are key, and you can bring your own sunscreen and mosquito spray, though they provide some lovely options on the ship, too.
- Easy slip-on shoes are a must as you will need to take them on and off at some sites, but also when you come back to the ship after excursions. This is a welcome cleaning service provided by the ship’s staff to keep the boat as germ-free as possible.
- When in Kolkata, there’s lots of shopping to be done, and New Market is the place for it. Jewelry, textiles, spices, teas, footwear, clothing, and more abound, and the sellers can be quite aggressive in their sales tactics. Rest assured, it’s all part of the experience and one shouldn’t be wary of bargaining back and forth. Just make sure to have plenty of Rupees on you — ATMs are readily available around the market.
Other Ganges River Cruises:
Not many cruise lines sail the Ganges, but besides Uniworld, there’s Avalon, CroisiEurope River Cruises, Antara, and Pandaw.