My experience at The Green O begins with a smiling man holding a sign with my name at the airport. I’d like to think it’s because I’m special but every guest at the resort receives complimentary transportation to and from the airport. It’s that kind of place. 

My boyfriend and I settle into the back of a luxury Lexus SUV and Hal, our driver, tells us if we’d like our own Lexus to use at the resort, he’ll drop one off. This, too, is included in our stay. He asks if we’re hungry and we tell him we are. Hal says we can get lunch after we drop off our bags. It’s the best news we’ve had all day. The food at Green O is legendary, and its chef was recently nominated for a James Beard Award. His skills are what drew us to the resort in Greenough, Montana, in the first place. 

Green O is the adults-only sister property of The Resort at Paws Up, the all-inclusive Montana ranch famous for luxury cabins and glamping tents. We’d been admiring pictures of the gorgeous tents for years, but when we booked our trip, we selected the more exclusive experience of The Green O, which is a sort of resort within a resort. Green O guests can immerse themselves in the Paws Up experience as much as they like. This includes multiple restaurants (that change seasonally), a luxury cocktail lounge, amenities like a full-service spa, a fitness center, and an outdoor outfitter. Paws Up activities include horseback riding, fly fishing, ATV riding, mountain biking, live music, and dozens of other options. 

The opposite isn’t true, however. Green O is behind a private gate and the experience is limited to 24 guests on the other side. Amenities include luxury Lexus SUVs, private hot tubs, complimentary room service, and exclusive access to the Social Haus restaurant, where three meals daily, made-to-order snacks, and wine and cocktails are part of the all-inclusive price. The menu options at Social Haus are extensive, but if guests want a change of scenery, the eateries and cocktail lounge at Paws Up are also included in their stay. 

Stunning Glass Houses in the Wilderness 

As Hal carries our bags, we wander through our accommodations, admiring each detail. Instead of tents and cabins, Green O offers luxury treehouses and glass homes. There are four layouts and 12 total habitats, each with wall-to-ceiling windows that make you feel like you're standing in the forest. At first, I worried that all this glass might interfere with our privacy, but the homes are staggered and well-spaced. We left our bedroom curtains open so we could wake up among the trees. 

We’d selected Round Haus. As the name suggests, the walls and windows are curved, spilling into the timber. Gas fireplaces grace the living room and bedroom, while a European-style kitchen disguises a refrigerator and freezer inside sleek cabinet drawers. The bathroom is an understated masterpiece with a deep soaking tub and a large dual-headed shower in front of large windows. We left the privacy shades open for the duration of our stay, unbothered by the thought that a deer or elk might sneak a peek from the hillside. 

Lunch at The Social Haus Restaurant

Like the Green O homes, the Social Haus restaurant is a stunner with floor-to-ceiling windows inviting the wilderness inside. On nice days, they slide open to celebrate the open air. The room’s centerpiece is a dazzling round glass fireplace. It’s beautiful but we didn’t come for the décor. We came to eat. 

We are handed three menus. One with lunch selections, one with snacks, and one with a list of wine, beer, and cocktails. Since Green O’s James Beard-nominated chef Brandon Cunningham creates what the property calls” dinner theater” every night by famously serving a different 8-course meal, we restrain ourselves. I order the Vietnamese fried chicken sandwich recommended by our server and my boyfriend has the Dungeness crab taco salad served in a freshly made tortilla bowl, as well as a side of potato salad.  

The sandwich has a perfectly crisp turmeric coating and juicy interior with just enough heat to enhance the flavor. The taco salad is a refreshing, light platform for the sweet Dungeness crab. The potato salad is a melody of potatoes, green garlic, and horseradish. It’s so good my boyfriend asks how long the kitchen is open since it would make the perfect midnight snack. They tell him the kitchen closes at 9 p.m. but he’s welcome to all he wants until then. 

Tomorrow, we’ll ride horses and ATVs at Paws Up, but today, we walk back to our Round Haus for a soak in the outdoor hot tub and a brief nap before dinner. 

The Main Event: “Dinner Theater”

We arrive at Social Haus for our dinner reservation at 7 p.m. on the dot. One might imagine that a restaurant this remarkable would be stuffy, but this isn’t the case. Since the Social Haus is only open to Green O guests, the atmosphere is intimate and friendly. Most people participate in activities at Paws Up during the day, so dress is casual and outdoorsy. Although there are plenty of private nooks and corners, most sit around the circular glass fireplace and lean across their tables to chat with their neighbors about how much fun they had fly fishing or shooting sports clays that day. 

We’re handed menu cards listing each of the night’s eight courses. I am surprised to see tonight’s amuse bouche, listed simply as amuse, is ham and cheese (though it turns out that courses are all described in just two words, adding intrigue to every dish before it’s served). What arrives is a feather-light puff of cheesy pastry topped with a slice of aged ham, carried to the table by the chef himself. Cunningham learned his craft on the job in Portland, Oregon. Instead of spending a fortune attending culinary school, he started as a dishwasher and worked his way up the ranks in local restaurants. 

Perhaps this is why Cunningham doesn’t take himself too seriously. He tells us food should be delicious, but it should also be fun — untainted by pretension and ego. The amuse is the perfect embodiment of this philosophy. It disappears into our mouths, leaving us wanting more. But seven more plates are coming. 

For the next three nights, we are serenaded with dishes like fresh albacore served with turnip in a bright, yet delicate sauce, a miniature, perfect version of fried chicken and waffle, tender beef and mushroom, venison and charred little gem lettuce, and salmon served with asparagus shaved to the point of translucence. Chef Cunningham weaves gracefully between playful dishes like crudité disguised as a potted plant and technical courses like sturgeon and sunroot. 

The dessert courses were no less revelatory, starting with palette cleansers like cucumber and yogurt or hibiscus with ginger, and ending with capstones like chocolate and cherry. As we head toward the door on our first night, our server tells us to look for a surprise in the kitchen when we return to our accommodations. 

We open the refrigerator drawer to find a bowl of the potato salad my boyfriend mentioned would make a perfect midnight snack. We squeal with delight as we take a forkful, despite being full. The thoughtfulness makes each bite as delicious as anything we’ve had. Not just at Green O, but anywhere. 

Know Before You Go

• The nearest airport is Missoula Montana Airport. The resort is a 40-minute drive, and transportation to and from the airport is included in your stay. 
• Green O is adults-only and each home sleeps up to two guests. The Resort at Paws Up welcomes larger groups and families. 
• Once you reserve your stay, a concierge will reach out to book your activities. There is an extra fee for spa treatments and guided experiences. 
• Select accommodations at Green O are pet-friendly, but pets aren’t permitted in the Social Haus. Dog walking and petsitting are available for an extra fee. 
• From June-September a three night minimum is required at Green O. There is a two-night minimum from October-May. Exceptions might include special events, packages, and holidays.