The majority of travelers to Hamburg are German, a fact that might not be surprising to Americans, who tend to visit Berlin or Munich instead. But the northern port city, which is an easy train ride from Copenhagen or Berlin, has a lot to offer, from high-end luxury hotels to dynamic art museums and a thriving culinary scene. It’s a destination in transition, with many new attractions and restaurants opening in recent months. This summer saw the opening of the Bunker St. Pauli, a renovation of an existing World War II bunker that includes a hotel and rooftop garden. Later this year, immersive art installation Port des Lumières will make its debut, with digital art museum teamLab Borderless Hamburg to follow next year. 

The left-leaning city has a lot in common with Amsterdam, Berlin, and Copenhagen, although its affluent population means high-end homes, designer shopping, and a luxury vibe that pervades many areas of town. It’s artsy and bohemian and upscale at the same time, which should appeal to anyone who enjoys European cities, particularly those with a slightly smaller scale and fewer crowds. It has an undeniable gritty charm, much like its sister city of Chicago, and still feels largely undiscovered by American travelers. I was thoroughly enchanted on a recent trip.

Here’s everything you need to know when planning a trip to Hamburg, Germany. 

What to Do

Hamburg is frequently compared to Amsterdam due to its many canals and historic architecture (and its infamous red light district), but the city feels more akin to Zurich or Berlin, depending on which neighborhood you explore. The Alster is one of the main attractions in the city, with many locals and visitors spending time exploring the lake and its adjacent park. A boat tour is the best way for newcomers to get the lay of the land, although Americans should note that many of the city’s boat tours are in German. You can also rent paddleboards or pedal boats around the shore, and some hotels, like The Fontenay, have bicycles on loan. Similar tours are available of the port and harbor, and can be a great way to better understand Hamburg’s history. Check with the boat company in advance to ensure they have an option for commentary in English (and whether it needs to be downloaded before you arrive). 

Near the port, Speicherstadt, a designated UNESCO site, showcases the city’s historic canals and warehouses, many of which have been converted into museums and housing. It’s home to Miniatur Wunderland, a constantly expanding miniature railway exhibition that is exceptionally popular, and the Kaffeemuseum Burg, which details Hamburg’s ongoing relationship with the coffee trade. Art lovers should seek out Hamburger Kunsthalle, a well-curated art museum that displays both classic and contemporary works in two vast buildings. It has regular special exhibitions, but visitors will also enjoy the permanent collection, which includes Caspar David Friedrich’s famous painting “Wanderer above the Sea of Fog.” Prominent concert hall Elbphilharmonie, which opened in 2017, hosts live music events and has a memorable viewing platform. 

Much ado has been made about Bunker St. Pauli, a former World War II anti-aircraft bunker that has housed offices and studios since the end of the war. Several floors have been added to the bunker’s rooftop to make space for a hotel, café, gallery, and multi-level rooftop garden, which is free for visitors to enter. The garden offers panoramic views, a great way to see all of Hamburg, but can become crowded so it’s best to head there as early as possible. Don’t miss the small exhibition on the former rooftop, which details the history of the building and explains why it was never destroyed. 

Those visiting in the summer months should head west from the port to Hamburg’s city beach, which sits on the Elbe River. It’s nearly two miles long, with access via bike or Hamburg’s easy-to-use S-Bahn metro to Blankenese. It’s a beautiful sandy stretch beloved by locals, and there are several beach bars and cafés nearby. 

Where to Eat:

In recent years, Hamburg has developed a reputation as a culinary destination, with several Michelin-starred restaurants opening in the past decade. The Table Kevin Fehling boasts the coveted three stars, while restaurants like Haerlin, bianc, and The Lisbeth have helped to establish the city’s fine dining scene. Hamburg is also notable for its Portuguese quarter, where visitors can partake in traditional and modern takes on the local cuisine at restaurants like Olá Lisboa. The Reeperbahn, Hamburg’s entertainment district, is a more lively experience, boasting dozens of bars and nightclubs, as well as the remaining red light district establishments. 

For something more local, the Sternschanze neighborhood is known for its hip restaurants and bars, as well as lively music venues. Jellyfish is a popular spot for high-end seafood, while Witwenball Küche & Wein is a chic wine bar and restaurant with plenty of outdoor tables. Sushi is surprisingly plentiful in Hamburg and Saito Sushi, near the university, is one of the most popular spots. Those looking for a low-key dinner should head to Pizza Electric, a cash-only spot perfect for a casual meal and drink. Closer to the center of town, Nord Coast Coffee Roastery offers top-notch coffee and brunch with views of the canals, and The Bakery’s Coffee is a charming coffee shop with bagels and juices. 

Where to Stay:

A highlight of Hamburg is the aforementioned Alster, a picturesque lake that sits in the middle of the city and borders its downtown. To make the most of the lake, travelers can book a room in The Fontenay, a contemporary luxury hotel that sits directly on its shores and has both park and lake view rooms and suites. It’s fittingly home to Lakeside, a two Michelin-starred restaurant that overlooks the Alster, as well as a rooftop pool that takes full advantage of the location. The property’s stylish guest rooms are notably spacious and well-appointed, with modern technology that will suit many types of travelers. It’s an easy walk into the city center and taxis are plentiful. 

For something more historic, the Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten is centrally located and deeply elegant (and was temporarily home to Taylor Swift during her European tour), while five-star boutique Hotel Louis C. Jacob has stood over the Elbe for two centuries. Those looking for a more budget-conscious option should book into the 25hours Hotel Hamburg Altes Hafenamt, located near by the harbor and many of the city’s top museums. The newly-opened REVERB by Hard Rock is another hip possibility, although its location in Bunker St. Pauli means potential crowds and noise nearby. 

When to Go:

There’s no wrong time to visit Hamburg, but winter can be windy and rainy, as well as dark. That said, like the rest of Germany, Hamburg puts on a memorable Christmas celebration, with many gorgeous Christmas markets. Summer typically brings nicer weather, although the crowds of tourists can be bigger in July and August. It’s also when the long-standing annual Hamburg DOM takes place, a kind of fun fair. The fall is a nice middle ground, offering fewer tourists and decent weather along with the potential for shoulder-season prices. 

How to Get There:

Hamburg is located in the northern part of Germany along the Elbe River, not far from Hanover and Berlin. It has one of the largest ports in Europe, so many cruise ships stop in Hamburg, particularly those coming from or going to nearby Amsterdam. Currently, there are not many direct flights available from the U.S. to Hamburg, thanks in part to the fact that it is more popular with European visitors. To fly to Hamburg, it’s best to look for a flight that connects via London, Frankfurt, Amsterdam, or Munich. It’s also accessible by train from Copenhagen in about five hours. 

Tips for Visiting:

• If you plan to use public transportation or visit several museums/attractions, purchase a Hamburg CARD. It offers up to 50% off popular activities and attractions and can include free travel on buses, trains, and harbor ferries. It can be booked for a specific number of days depending on your travel and is available as an easy-to-use digital ticket. 
• Many of the harbor and lake boat tours are in German because most tourists to Hamburg come from Germany and nearby countries. If you want to hear English commentary, many boat operators have an app to download ahead of time. Check the specific boat tour’s website when booking to ensure you’ll be able to hear the commentary in English. 
• Hamburg is known as a rainy city, like London, so it’s recommended to always have an umbrella or waterproof jacket on hand. It can also be very windy, so layers are helpful when packing. 
• While many places in Hamburg accept credit and debit cards, some spots are cash-only. Unlike in bigger European cities, it’s a good idea to grab some Euros from the ATM to have on hand.