Despite being the largest peninsula in the Adriatic Sea — so large it’s spread across Croatia, Slovenia, and even a little bit of Italy — Istria is still somewhat of a hidden gem. It’s even more of a hidden gem among wine connoisseurs.

Boasting views of the snow-capped Alpine mountains of Slovenia and Italy to the north and the glistening blue Adriatic Sea to the south, east, and west, Istria is a multi-season destination. Its rock and pebble shores and low-key seaside resorts attract sun-seekers through summer, while the lush hilly interior, planted with vineyards, olive groves, and oak forests (the hunting ground of pungent truffles), is a gourmet delight in spring and fall.

Almost two millennia ago, the Ancient Romans had already succumbed to Istria's natural beauty, founding the port town and administrative center of Pula on the peninsula's southern tip, and keeping rural villae rusticae that yielded wine, olive oil, and honey. In the 1st century, famous Roman philosopher Pliny the Elder praised Istrian wine, which is believed to have been made from the indigenous Teran grape, with resistant ruby-red berries producing a robust red. This wine is still much loved today.

Mediterranean and Continental climates meet here in the northwest corner of Croatia. Istria has two principal soil types: red clay that’s rich in iron and ideal for red wines and more powerful whites in the west, and, in the northeast, white limestone soil that is better for crisp whites. 

Historically, red Teran dominated here, though Malvasia now accounts for 60% of the region's vineyards. Some experts believe that the Malvasia grape was introduced to the region by Venetian sailors, who brought it from Monemvassia in Greece aboard their galleys in the 15th century. Much of Istria came under Venetian rule between the 13th and 18th centuries, hence the proud fortified harbor towns along the coast and the beguiling medieval-walled hilltowns of the interior.

Having lived in Croatia for almost 20 years, working as a freelance travel and wine writer, I've had the chance to travel extensively through Istria and visit the region's top cultural attractions, hotels, restaurants, and wineries. Here are my favorites. 

Where to Taste:

One could safely say that Istria is an old-world wine region with a new-world perspective. Today, it boasts almost 80 family-run wineries that are open for tastings (reservations are highly recommended).

Beginning in north Istria, near the Slovenian border, Kabola lies near the village Momjan. In an old stone farmhouse, at the end of a regal avenue of cypresses, it offers tastings accompanied by platters of cheese and pršut (similar to Italian prosciutto) on a stone terrace overlooking its organic vineyards. Kabola was one of the first Croatian wineries to restart making wine the ancient way, in huge terracotta amphora. Be sure to try their full-bodied golden Malvazija Amfora, with hints of quince, vanilla, and herbs, as well as a glass of Muškat Momjanski, a sweet dessert wine bearing the EU-protected designation of origin (PDO) proving it’s been produced within a 5 km (3 miles) radius of Momjan. Kabola serves the latter with warm and buttery homemade apple cake, with which it pairs perfectly.

Nearby, hidden in a sheltered valley with a stream below Momjan, Kozlović occupies a slick contemporary winery that offers tastings on an open-air terrace in summer and in a cozy lounge with a fireplace in winter. Standouts include their prize-winning Kozlović Santa Lucia Malvazija, which is aged in big 5,000-liter oak barrels for 12 months and noted for its fruitiness and minerality, and their potent red Santa Lučija noir, which combines Teran, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon and is also aged in oak.

Heading south, in Krasica, near Buje, Clai specializes in natural wines made from organic grapes fermented in their skins in open vats. They focus on Istrian varieties like Malvasia and Retook (closely related to Teran), as well as Pinot Grigio. As Clai's oenologist Tim Whitfield says, “Wine is good when it tastes of the place.” Sample Clai's Sveti Jakov, a silky white with notable minerality that’s made from Malvasia grapes from 50-year-old vines and matured in wooden barrels. Ottocento crni, a cuvee of Refošk and Merlot aged in big barrels for two years to produce a robust dry red with hints of black fruits and oak, is another must-try.

Motovun is most known for its potent red Teran. Here, find the stylish Tomaz winery, built from concrete, stone, and oxidized metal with a tasting room that has spectacular views of the vineyards and forests of the Mirna Valley. Besides light summery Malvasia, Tomaz makes five sorts of Teran, with its Teran Superior being a favorite. It’s made from grapes dried on straw for 100 days, then aged in wooden barrels for two years.

Between Rovinj and Pula, near Bale, Meneghetti is a sophisticated wine resort with a modern winery and tasting room. Meneghetti was one of the first Croatian wineries to pursue spumantes and has four delicious sparkling wines to try. Red wine lovers should try their robust Meneghetti Red, which blends Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Fran before aging it for six years.

Other Things to See and Do:

Visit Rovinj on the west coast to stroll around the harbor, which is rimmed by pastel-colored Venetian-era facades. Then, head up the old town's winding cobbled alleys to the hilltop Church of St Euphemia, which is modeled after San Marco in Venice. 

In Poreč, check out the UNESCO-listed Euphrasian Basilica, which dates back to the sixth century and has glittering golden Byzantine mosaics adorning the apse. In Pula, see the well-preserved Arena, a first-century AD Roman amphitheater. Each summer it hosts open-air concerts — Simple Minds and Andrea Bocelli performed here in 2024. 

Where to Stay:

The 5-star Grand Park Hotel in Rovinj overlooks the marina, with the old town rising majestically across the bay. It has 209 rooms featuring a sleek, contemporary design, gourmet dining (it has seven restaurants and bars, one of which has two Michelin stars), and a rooftop spa with indoor and outdoor pools. The concierge can arrange wine-tasting excursions.

For total submersion in Istrian wine culture, you can also stay at Meneghetti, a 19th-century stone villa that sits amid vineyards and olive groves. The 48 rustic-chic residences come with kitchenettes, plush bathrooms, and furnished terraces, some with private pools. The gorgeous garden restaurant adorned with climbing roses and fragrant herbs is an added perk. 

If you prefer a more secluded retreat, Roxanich in Motovun is for you. Built atop a winery it has 32 rooms featuring quirky décor (including custom-made wallpaper) that mix old and new: ‘60s Italian vibes are perfectly paired with modern designer furniture for a playful but sleek look. The terrace restaurant and outdoor infinity pool overlooking the Mirna Valley are equally chic.

Where to Eat:

Foodies will love Istria's waterside konobe (taverns) that serve fresh Adriatic seafood; the rural agrotourism eateries that specialize in seasonal rustic far; and the variety of superb fine dining restaurants that offer creative Mediterranean cuisine.

In a walled garden draped in bougainvillea, next to Rovinj's hilltop church, Michelin-starred Monte serves dinner only. It has three tasting menus, with standout dishes including lobster bisque (creamy lobster soup with fennel and trout roe) and goat cheese strudel (with spinach and pumpkin). For intimate private dining, reserve the nearby Cave Lab, which serves the same menus.

In the former village school in Krasica, Stara Škola showcases Clai wines. The menu changes weekly, but you can expect local seasonal specialties, such as scorpionfish carpaccio, roast pumpkin, smoked mussels, and delectable cheesecake with marinated figs.

Just inside Motovun's main gate, Konoba Fakin enjoys sweeping views of the verdant Mirna Valley. Come here for asparagus soup and handmade fuži pasta with truffles, accompanied by Fakin's own excellent Malvasia and Teran, from their winery below town.

The Best Time to Go:

July through August is Istria’s peak season, when it’s the warmest and most crowded. Most visitors agree that Istria is at its loveliest in the shoulder seasons, which are May through June and September to October, when it’s still warm and sunny, but less crowded. Note that September to October is also harvest season, when many wineries host harvest festivals and wine-focused events take place across Istria.

How to Get There:

You can fly to Pula, the closest major airport, from various European cities.

Combine It With:

The nearest major tourist destination to Istria is Venice, Italy, which is about 2 to 3 hours away by car or ferry (there are direct ferry routes from Pula and Rovinj to Venice from late spring to early fall). The Slovenian capital of Ljubljana is about a 2-hour drive from Istria, while Trieste, Italy, is around a 1 to 1.5-hour drive away. All of these make excellent city breaks to combine with a wine country escape.