When it comes to the Italian Lakes District, Lake Como tends to hog all the glory. And while there’s no denying that George Clooney’s home away from home is beautiful and glamorous, it’s becoming increasingly crowded — and prohibitively expensive.
Enter Lake Garda, an under-the-radar and more low-key alternative about three hours east of Lake Como. Lake Garda straddles the regions of Lombardy and Veneto and the northernmost tip is in Trentino-Alto Adige. (It also happens to be Italy’s largest lake.)
While Lake Como is the place for jet setters to relax and live la dolce vita, Lake Garda attracts a more adventurous, outdoorsy type of traveler — someone who prefers cycling, hiking, and basically any type of watersport to vying with Instagram influencers for the perfect shot of a villa.
As a travel writer living in Rome, I’ve long heard whispers about the natural beauty of this unsung escape and decided I had to see it for myself. On a long weekend last April, my husband and I drove 6.5 hours from Rome to Lake Garda, spending two days each on the Lombardy and Veneto sides (though travelers can also fly into Milan, which is around two hours from Lake Garda).
Days 1 & 2
Our first home base was the 79-room, waterfront Grand Hotel Fasano in the small, upscale town of Gardone Riviera. A member of the Leading Hotels of the World, the neoclassical property was built in 1888 as a hunting lodge for the Austrian royal family, providing a glimpse into the area’s history. (The Austrian border is just three hours away and guests from Austria and Germany often stay here.) Today, it’s a family-run hotel known for its expansive, picturesque garden and the Michelin-starred restaurant Il Fagiano.
At Il Fagiano, the five-course tasting menu offers a fantastic value, at €105 (about $113) per person; a similar dinner would have cost double or even triple in Lake Como. (I’m still thinking about the risotto with lemon, burrata, and licorice.) After dinner, it was time for a nightcap at the cozy, leather-clad bar Ramas, where you can check out archival photos of the hotel. Don’t miss the Bootlegger, a cocktail made with bourbon, Frangelico, and Italian vermouth served in a flask hidden inside a book.
The next morning, we headed to Limone sul Garda, a village famous for its lemon trees. Though lemons typically grow in southern Italy, Lake Garda has a unique microclimate that makes the citrus trees thrive. If you’re in the market for limoncino (the northern Italian version of limoncello) and clothes adorned with citrus, you’ve come to the right place. The town is admittedly a bit touristy — you’ll see signs in German everywhere — but its beauty is still undeniable, especially when you take it all in from the hilltop church Chiesetta di San Rocco.
Dinner that night was at Osteria Dalie e Fagioli, a Michelin-recommended restaurant that serves innovative takes on traditional dishes under wood-beamed ceilings. I loved the shrimp in kataifi (a type of pastry dough), and the gnocchi served in a sauce made with local Bagoss cheese topped with black truffle. The owner himself helped us choose a bottle of wine.
Days 3 & 4
On our way to the Veneto side, we stopped in Sirmione, a small peninsula jutting into the water. It’s worth a visit to wander the charming cobblestone streets, take a dip in its famous thermal hot springs, and check out the Grottoes of Catullus (supposedly the ruins of the villa of the ancient Roman poet Catullus) and the 14th-century Scaligero Castle. From the castle’s tower, the water took on the most incredible aquamarine hues reminiscent of the Caribbean. The secret about Sirmione may be getting out, though; even in early April (normally considered shoulder season), it was crowded with German tourists on Easter break.
Our home for the last two nights was Cape of Senses, an adults-only, wellness-focused resort that opened a few months ago in the town of Torri del Benaco on a hill above the lake. Cape of Senses guests have exclusive access to a stunning spa.
While our first hotel gave us a taste of history, Cape of Senses — with its sleek design, floor-to-ceiling windows, and infinity pool — was all modern-day Lake Garda. It’s ideal for couples looking for a romantic escape: Because of the hotel’s expansive layout, it never feels crowded, even when it’s completely full.
Another excellent hotel in Sirmione is the lakefront Villa Cortine Palace. This 19th-century-era villa turned five-star property — which has earned a Michelin Key — represents the epitome of smart luxury as comparable hotels on Lake Como can cost hundreds if not thousands, more. Savvy travelers flock here to experience the hotel's opulent grounds, which span 12 scenic acres (the pools, restaurants, private pier and speedboat, and lavish rooms and suites with postcard-worthy lake views don't hurt either).
The next morning, we drove about 35 minutes north to Malcesine, designated one of the Borghi più belli d’Italia (most beautiful villages in Italy). Unlike on the Lombardy side, where the elevated roads offer views from on high, the roads here are at water level, giving us a totally different perspective. Save your souvenir shopping for this village: L’Oliveto, for example, sells beautiful bowls, spoons, and cutting boards made with olive wood, and I was very tempted to buy an oyster-shaped serving bowl at Ceramiche Edelweiss, just one of the many handmade ceramics lining the shelves.
On the way back, we overshot the hotel and headed to Bardolino thanks to a tip my husband got from a colleague about Gelateria Cristallo. The family-run spot has been serving gelato and sorbetto using fresh, natural ingredients since 1969, and the flavors we tried — cherry, pistachio, mango, banana, strawberry, and coconut — were worth the detour.
For our last meal, we took the recommendation of Alina Deutsch, the general manager at Cape of Senses, and went to La Regata dal Pesci, an intimate waterfront restaurant where the food and service were *chef’s kiss*; the owner even agreed to substitute the pasta dish for the risotto with burrata, raw shrimp, and fresh truffle from the à la carte menu.
As we toasted with a glass of Franciacorta — the Italian version of Champagne made in nearby Lombardy — I thought back on a conversation I’d had with Deutsch earlier that day.
“I used to think all we needed here is someone like George Clooney,” she told us, “but actually I think we’re better off this way.”
When To Go
Avoid the coldest months (November to February), as well as the European high season in July and August, when mostly Italian, German, Austrian, and Swiss travelers flock to Lake Garda. The shoulder season months — April, May, September, and October — are ideal, offering the perfect trifecta of fewer crowds, nice weather (60s and 70s), and better rates.
How To Get Around
A car is the most convenient way to get around, especially if you’re looking to explore far afield from wherever you’re staying. Just note that during the high season, the roads that circle the lake get crowded with various modes of transport, from big tour buses to cyclists. Some hotels offer other transport options; for example, Cape of Senses has a Fiat 500, e-Vespa, and e-bikes available for guests to rent for three hours or the whole day.
If you’d rather take to the water, the ferry is a picturesque option. It stops in 20 towns along the lake, and day passes for unlimited ferry rides for 24 hours are available.
How To Get There
The closest international airports are Milan Bergamo Airport (on the Lombardy side) and Valerio Catullo Airport in Verona (on the Veneto side). If you’re not renting a car at the airport, you can take a train to Desanzano del Garda (on the Lombardy side) or Peschiera del Garda (on the Veneto side). From there, organize a car transfer in advance through your hotel or grab a taxi.
Lake Garda is also the perfect add-on if you’re coming from another part of Italy and want to make a road trip out of it, the way we did from Rome. The southernmost tip of the lake is about 1.5 hours from Milan and Venice, two hours from Bologna, and three hours from Florence.
Best Things to Do
Boat Tour of the Lake
There are many companies that offer boat tours on Lake Garda. You can find plenty of options to choose from via GetYourGuide.
Gardaland Amusement Park
If you’re traveling with kids, consider spending a day at Gardaland, one of Italy’s largest amusement parks.
Cable Car to Monte Baldo
From Malcesine, you can ride a cable car up to the top of Monte Baldo and go hiking, mountain biking, or paragliding. Or just grab a drink at the Skywalk Bar and take in the panoramic views.
Riva del Garda
This town on the northern tip of the lake is popular for water sports like windsurfing and kitesurfing as well as hiking and mountain biking. Don’t want to get the adrenaline pumping? Explore the charming historic center, which is full of colorful buildings housing museums, restaurants, bars, and shops.
Winery Visit
There are wine regions in both Lombardy and Veneto within about an hour to an hour and a half of the lake. On the Lombardy side, Franciacorta is the region where the Italian equivalent of Champagne is produced, while on the Veneto side, there are wineries that produce Prosecco.