Writer and producer Andrew Denton said it best: "If Antarctica were music it would be Mozart. Art, and it would be Michelangelo. Literature, and it would be Shakespeare. And yet it is something even greater; the only place on Earth that is still as it should be. May we never tame it."
And while the White Continent may not yet be tamed, it certainly has its share of visitors. Since the early 1990s, tourism in Antarctica has grown continually. Between 1992 and 2020, the number of tourists arriving increased tenfold, rising to 75,000 in the 2019-20 season and again to 104,897 in the 2022-23 season.
This was my second visit to Antarctica, and, as a travel writer, I struggle with the consequences of over-tourism; traveling to Antarctica has a high carbon footprint. If Antarctica is on your must-visit list, my advice would be to choose a company with responsible environmental practices that works to educate and advocate for sustainable tourism.
For this visit, I traveled with Abercrombie & Kent, a luxury expedition outfitter that's been in business since their first modern luxury safari over 60 years ago.
A&K, as they are known, charters a Ponant vessel for their Antarctic voyages, which go beyond the White Continent (more on that soon). The Le Lyrial ship is a luxury yacht that's specifically built for expedition travel (it's an Ice Class 1C vessel and Clean-Ship certified). Ponant has a small fleet of these expedition ships, which are ideal for marrying adventure with opulence; think, hiking snow-capped peaks by day and enjoying cocktails and canapes by night). Even better, they're able to reach more remote areas that are often inaccessible to larger vessels. Onboard, expect an extended trip of exploring hard-to-reach shorelines, spotting exceptional wildlife, and zipping around whales and icebergs on a Zodiac.
This particular A&K journey limits capacity to 199 total travelers (from the ship’s standard maximum of 264), never exceeding 80% capacity. The Ponant staff is led by A&K's expert expedition team that is always on the lookout for the very best opportunities to unveil Antarctica's natural wonders (there are often announcements for wildlife on the ship's speakers). The team also provides a wealth of knowledge, as it includes research scientists, historians, habitat conservationists, and wildlife photographers. All Zodiac cruises (there are often two per day) are piloted by experienced field naturalists for close-up viewings. Depending on who scoops you up, a different expertise and unique perspective will be had.
A&K's first-ever expedition to Antarctica was in 1991, and showcasing this unspoiled frontier is central to its operations. Today, A&K has gone on more than 400 voyages — some of its expedition leaders have traveled to Antarctica over 200 times; one of our leaders lived there for research purposes.
In a nutshell: You're getting more than a luxury cruise. You're getting a nuanced and experienced crew who offer information and answers at every turn. On my journey, I made a point of asking as many questions as possible, certain I'd "stump" someone from the team. Spoiler alert: That never happened.
What to Expect
The trip lasts a total of 19 days, though the actual cruising portion on Le Lyrial is 17 days. Guests begin the journey in Buenos Aires (for which you'll need to pack separate clothing for very warm temperatures). We spent two days in this bustling and beautiful city, in which A&K offers included tours. After two nights, a charter flight will leave from Buenos Aires for the three-hour flight to Ushuaia airport. Ushuaia, dubbed the southernmost city in the world, is where you'll board the ship.
You won't have to think about much during an A&K trip on Ponant. The cruise director (we had Arthur, who was incredible) along with the expedition team let guests know exactly what to do, where to be, and what to expect. By the end of the trip, you feel like one big family and might miss the gentle hand-holding. (Who is going to tell me when it's time for lunch?) All staterooms and suites have a private balcony, and every suite offers complimentary butler service. The vessel also features multiple observation areas, a lounge, two restaurants, a library, a theater, an outside heated pool, a fitness center, a small spa, and a 24-hour medical facility with a certified doctor. A&K also includes Wi-Fi, alcoholic drinks, 24/7 room service, expedition gear, gratuities, and laundry service.
A typical day might include an early breakfast (or request room service) and then it's off on a Zodiac to explore the shore on daily landings, perhaps one packed with gentoo penguins and fur seals. After the first expedition, it's time for lunch (which can be a buffet or sit-down). There are often informative lectures in the afternoon (don't miss expedition leader Rob Caskie speaking on anything and everything) or even a spa treatment (for an additional cost). I had a fantastic massage, rocked to sleep by the gentle waves. Sometimes, afternoons offer a second expedition if the weather allows, and before you know it, it's time for cocktail hour or mammal spotting from the observation deck (BYOB — as in, bring your own binoculars). Every evening before dinner, a lecture is given in the auditorium. There's a beverage table set up outside so you can sip Champagne while learning about the habits of birds and what's on tap for the next day's adventure. Post-dinner, there's often trivia or karaoke for the night owls.
When to Travel
The best time to travel to the Antarctic is during the summer months, from November to March. This is when days are longest (there's often light until 10 p.m. and again at 3 a.m.), the weather is warmest, and the wildlife is at its peak activity.
A&K offers just two trips to the Antarctic in the upcoming season (December 2025 and January 2026) and each includes a stopover at the Falkland Islands and South Georgia Island, the latter considered by many to be a hidden gem of the trip.
Other Cruise Lines That Travel to Antarctica
Multiple cruise lines and tour operators travel to Antarctica: Ponant, Viking, Quark, and Intrepid Travel, to name a few. Some only cruise by the snowy landscapes, others make landings, so make sure you choose the one that's best for you, based on physical ability and what you want to see and do on the White Continent.
Environmental Ethos
Traveling to Antarctica can be controversial for environmental reasons — the carbon footprint is high, which makes choosing the right tour operator essential. A&K is a member of the International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators (IAATO), which champions the practice of safe and environmentally responsible travel to Antarctica. They're responsible for the restrictions and regulations on the continent, along with minimizing tourist impact with biosecurity measures, designated landing sites, and wildlife protection. I was impressed by the expert lectures devoted to what guests can do once they get home from their trip, specifically how to reduce their overall carbon footprint to make a positive impact on Antarctica in the future.
One example of an onboard lecturer is climate research scientist Dr. Jim McClintock, who is the author of nearly 300 research publications and four books and has joined A&K on over a dozen Antarctic expeditions. In 2018, he was awarded the Scientific Committee on Antarctic Research (SCAR) Inaugural Medal for Excellence in Antarctic Education and Communication. McClintock and his research collaborators have also conducted drug discovery research and have discovered an anti-cancer (melanoma) compound in an Antarctic marine invertebrate. He spends two to three months a year visiting and researching at Palmer Station, a U.S. research station on Anvers Island in Antarctica.
It's also worth noting A&K's Saving the Albatross program: Guests traveling on expedition cruises to Antarctica can learn more on board about the need for effective mitigation to solve the seabird bycatch problem (when seabirds are unintentionally caught in fishing gear, posing a serious threat to their population) and witness albatrosses in their natural habitat. Finally, a portion of the cost of each Antarctic cruise fare goes toward A&K's Philanthropy Antarctica Climate Change Project, which provides Dr. McClintock with resources and funding for the purchase of a piece of equipment that climate change scientists need for their research working out of Palmer Station.