It was just after midnight by the time I arrived at my hotel room in Okinawa, and there was little to see from my oceanview balcony, with the exception of a few twinkling lights bobbing in the distance. I've traveled far and wide across Japan's 47 prefectures, but March 2023 marked my inaugural visit to the country's remote island archipelago, and I couldn't wait for daylight to see if the island's reputation as "the Hawaii of Japan" lived up to the hype.
Once an independent nation called the Ryukyu Kingdom before it was annexed and reformed as Japan's southernmost prefecture in 1879, the island's geographic location in the East China Sea has long made it a strategic trading post. Today, remnants of the past can be found in everything from the cuisine to the lion-like Shisa statues adorning the houses and restaurants across the islands.
In recent years, Okinawa, or "Oki" as military personnel who serve on the U.S. bases here are known to call it, has become synonymous with longevity thanks in large part to its role in the 2023 Netflix documentary "Live to 100: Secrets of The Blue Zones." Today, hotels across the islands have since heeded the longevity call, offering guests a chance to experience healthy, often vegetable-forward ingredients grown throughout the islands along with their own Blue Zone retreats and experiences.
As soon as daylight broke, I hit the ground running, and what I discovered has left a long-lasting impression. While there are similarities to Hawaii in terms of its striking natural beauty and slower pace, it was the kindness of locals and their way of life that have left a deep and lasting impression. Here's everything you need to know to plan a visit.
What to Do
The marine life and rich biodiversity found around Okinawa make it a diving, snorkeling, and sailing haven. Weather permitting, you can technically do any of these activities year-round, although summertime is best in terms of water temperature. The archipelago is also a popular beach destination. If you want to stay on dry land, get your city fill in Naha, Okinawa's bustling capital, where there's no shortage of souvenir shopping, bar hopping, local restaurants, and markets. Tsuboya Yachimun Street in Naha is a great area for picking up locally made ceramics.
Dating back to the 1300s, Shuri Castle is part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It's currently being renovated following a devastating fire in 2019, but you can still explore the grounds, which offer incredible views over the main island. About a 20-minute drive away, the stone gateway at the Tamagusuku ruins is considered a spiritual site.
On the northeast peninsula of Okinawa, Yanbaru National Park is a nature lover's paradise and a great place for river trekking, hiking, and canyoneering.
Where to Stay
Stretching across a mile of coastline, Halekulani Okinawa opened in 2019 and is the perfect jumping-off point for exploring Okinawa Main Island (also known as Okinawa Honto). The resort complex is spread across several buildings, and rooms here are just as generous in size, making it a great option for families and couples. As a solo traveler, I didn't mind the extra space to spread out. In addition to beachfront access and incredible on-site restaurant options, the all-day dining at House Without A Key, whose incredible breakfast spread and regional delicacies like agu pork and Okinawan soba with pork ribs, is second to none. One of the best parts about staying at Halekulani is the range of immersive cultural activities, as well as the chance to book a diving and snorkeling tour on the hotel's catamaran.
A sharp contrast from big box resorts across the islands, Hoshinoya Okinawa on the main island is a traditional Ryukyu-inspired boutique hotel that offers 100 spacious ocean-facing villas, a healthy Italian-meets-Japanese fusion fine dining restaurant at Bellezza, and in-room Blue Zone-inspired dining. A short ride away, the pottery village of Yomitan is not to be missed (be sure to bring plenty of Japanese yen as many shops in Yomitan don't take credit cards). At the heart of the lush property is a Japanese-style studio offering traditional Ryukyu dance classes, guided meditation, and karate lessons in the hotel's dojo. Horseback rides on the beach and activities like a Blue Zone Stay that come with healthy Okinawan specialties like sea grapes, purple yams, and a peanut-butter-like Jimami tofu are not to be missed.
Set on a private island off of the main island, Hyatt Regency Seragaki Island, Okinawa is a great option for families and groups. With 343 oceanfront rooms, six restaurants, and access to a private lagoon, the hotel is a popular locale for weddings, conferences, and events. Don't skip a chance to bliss out with a diamond caviar facial or the Ryukyu Compress treatment at Spa Hanari.
If you're keen on venturing beyond the main island, IRAPH SUI, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Miyako Okinawa, is a 58-key seaside retreat on Irabu Island. The island is connected to Miyako Island via Japan's Irabu Bridge, which is hailed as the longest toll-free bridge in Japan. Opened on March 1st, Rosewood Miyakojima is the brand's first hotel to open in Japan and features 55 ocean and beachfront villas and houses, each of which comes with a private plunge pool. On-site, guests will find four international restaurants and bars, as well as an infinity pool by the beach and the Asaya Spa complete with treatment rooms, a yoga studio, and a fitness center.
What to Eat
Because they use wheat flour instead of buckwheat, Okinawa soba noodles are distinctly different from those you'll find anywhere else in Japan. Don't skip them, especially if they come with local agu pork, which can be found in izakayas (a type of casual bar serving drinks and food) across the islands. Kokusai-Dori street is the main artery in Naha and a great place to try a variety of distinctly Okinawan snacks and drinks, from an American-inspired dish called taco rice to awamori, a uniquely Okinawan spirit that is solely produced on the islands.
Plant-based and vegan restaurants are ubiquitous across the Okinawan islands. If you want to try authentic Okinawan cuisine, Emi no Mise in Ogimi Village offers a menu of locally grown vegetables and delicacies, including bitter-melon stir fry and Okinawan-style pork. Book your reservations here in advance, and don't leave the islands without sampling shikuwasa, a lime-like citrus fruit grown here and known for its healthy and healing properties.
When to Go
Okinawa has a subtropical climate and is considered a year-round destination. The best times to visit are, without a doubt, the shoulder months of April and May (with the exception of Golden Week in early May, which is a national Japanese holiday) and October and November when the weather is warm, the price of hotels is lower, and there are fewer tourists.
January and February are popular times to visit, thanks to the cherry blossoms, which bloom earlier on the islands than in mainland Japan. Winter is also prime whale watching season here. The winter months can be chilly and some restaurants and businesses remain closed.
June through September are the hottest and most humid months to visit. It's also peak tourist season as beachgoers and diving enthusiasts worldwide come to bask in the warm Okinawan waters. Summertime is also peak typhoon season, so be prepared for rain and inclement weather.
How to Get There
The fastest and most direct way to get to Okinawa is to fly. Naha Airport is the main hub on the island of Okinawa, and there are daily direct flights from Haneda Airport (HND) and Narita Airport (NRT) in Tokyo on major carriers, including ANA and JAL, along with a handful of regional airlines. The flight is about three hours from Tokyo to Naha.
Daily ferries to Okinawa are also available every other day from Kagoshima on mainland Japan. It takes about 25 hours to ferry between mainland Japan and Naha, and times and routes tend to change depending on the weather.
Tips For Visiting
- Buses, taxis, and a monorail are all available when you land at the airport in Naha. If you plan on exploring the main island on your own, or if you're planning on visiting beyond it, it's best to make arrangements for transportation in advance. Renting a car is a great, cost-effective option, especially if you plan on covering a lot of distance and don't want to rely on taxis, which can be harder to find outside of Naha.
- While English is spoken at most of the hotels here, the language barrier can be steeper compared to other cities across Japan. It's good to learn a few basic Japanese words from Konnichiwa (hello), arigatou (informal thank you), hai (yes), o-ku-da-sai (please/I would like) and Ikura-desu-ka (how much is it?). It's also a good idea to have Google Translate handy, just in case.
- If you're planning a scuba diving trip in Okinawa, you must be able to provide a valid scuba certification for open water dives in advance.
- Similar to mainland Japan, tipping is not expected in Okinawa. While many restaurants and shops accept credit cards, it's a good idea to have Japanese yen on hand, especially for taxis and smaller handicraft shops, which may not accept credit cards or American dollars.