With a majestic backdrop of Mount Pellegrino and the Mediterranean Sea, the sunbaked natural beauty of Palermo, Sicily's capital city, is indisputable. There's a wealth of manmade wonders, too, from a medieval cathedral and palace to several open-air markets, each with their own vibe. Palermo can be as hectic as it is heavenly, as chaotic as it is elegant, and as speedy as it is and slow. However, it's always authentically itself. To fully experience Palermo, you must embrace both sides.

Though Sicily, and Palermo in particular, has been the backdrop to movies like "Il Gattopardo" and "Godfather Part: Part III," season 2 of "The White Lotus" (mainly shot in the Sicilian hilltop town of Taormina) has pumped new blood into the entire island's tourism sector. U.S. searches for Sicily almost doubled after the season aired, according to Travel Weekly, and interest shows no signs of waning.

Perhaps piggybacking off the hype, new hotels such as Palazzo Cartari and Bastione Spasimo Boutique Hotel and restaurants like Gagini’s (located in the former studio of 16th-century sculptor Antonello Gagini) recently opened in Palermo. Palazzo Butera, a Baroque-style palace that generations of aristocrats once called home, is newly transformed into a space for culture and research. Visitors can view the owners' private art collection and shop or dine at MadonieEat, sampling products sourced from nearby Madonie National Park. Other prestigious palaces, such as Palazzo Valguarnera Gangi, have also started opening their doors to a select number of tourists.

I lived in Italy for years before discovering Palermo. Now, it pulls me like a magnet. And with United Airlines starting nonstop service from New York City in 2025, many more people will likely feel the same way.

What to See

In the historical center, the Palermo Cathedral is a show-stopping example of Sicily's distinct architectural style that emerged under Norman rule. It was built in 1184 on the site of what was previously a Muslim Mosque, and its abundance of Islamic-style geometric patterns is a tangible reminder of its past.

Located just outside of Palermo's center, Monreale Cathedral is another 12th-century masterpiece of Norman architecture with a patchwork of Arab and Byzantine touches. Step inside the elaborate bronze doors by Italian sculptor Bonanno Pisano and be wowed by golden mosaics illustrating biblical events from the Old and New Testaments. The adjacent Benedictine cloister has hundreds of paired marble columns, each decorated with rich carvings and intricate inlays.

Renowned for its Neoclassical beauty and superior acoustics, Teatro Massimo is Italy's largest theater. Take a guided tour or book seats and watch an opera or ballet. The Opera dei Pupi offers more light-hearted entertainment, where giant handmade marionettes star in action-packed storylines that will delight kids as well as kids at heart. 

Glimpse the history of Palermo's aristocracy at the Norman Palace, home to centuries of Sicilian royalty. Peek into their living quarters (open only on weekdays) and marvel at the tiny Palatine Chapel's impressive Norman-Byzantine mosaics.  

At Palermo's botanical garden, the sweet smell of citrus blossoms should help you overlook its slightly unkempt edges. It's a non-touristy slice of life, with parents pushing prams and retired folks taking afternoon walks. Soak in the beauty of rare species of Christ's thorn, Drago trees, and Mediterranean dwarf palms clustered along the shady paths.

Where to Eat

Even in a gastronomic powerhouse like Italy, Sicilian cuisine stands tall. The colors, sounds, and aromas at the outdoor Capo Market in the frenzied city center are a feast for the senses. As you walk the lively labyrinth of narrow streets, you'll see Palermitani haggle with vendors as they purchase seasonal produce, from blood oranges to artichokes, all bursting with flavor thanks to Sicily's trifecta of volcanic soil, abundant sunshine, and farming techniques that prize quality above quantity. For a luscious lunch, limber your palate with savory street food such as arancini, fried rice balls stuffed with gooey cheese, and pillowy chickpea fritters called panelle. For dessert, sample tempting tidbits of chocolate from Modica, which has a distinctly grainy texture as it hasn't undergone the conching process that makes chocolate smooth. 

For homestyle Sicilian cuisine, the food at Buatta Cucina Popolana tastes like your nonna is at the stove. Start with classic caponata, a zesty blend of eggplant, capers, olives, and tomatoes, followed by pasta with tiny sardines and pungent wild fennel. If your appetite can power on, the day's fresh catch is always perfectly cooked. 

In the shadow of the prestigious Palazzo Gangi, Osteria dei Vespri is a refined dining spot with a top-notch wine cellar offering hundreds of hard-to-find Sicilian bottles. If you're not familiar with Sicilian varietals, like Nero d'Avola and Catarratto, you're in for a treat. Order the hyper-local vegetarian tasting menu or à la carte options such as feathery potato gnocchi with mussels.  

A sweet tooth seems to be every resident's birthright. Both branches of Pasticceria Cappello sell Sicily's two most beloved cakes: the Seven Veils, a seven-layer cake topped with a shiny chocolate glaze, and the colorful Cassata, a sponge cake soaked in liqueur and decorated with candied fruit and marzipan. The cannoli are filled with ricotta that's as smooth as silk with shells so crisp you'll hear a snap. Regulars arrive early for a breakfast brioche, which can be filled with gelato upon request.

Where to Stay

Villa Igiea is a Belle Époque structure overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, a discerning oasis just a few minutes from Palermo's center. Originally built as a private villa, it has been meticulously restored to preserve historical features — such as the frescoed bar and mirrored ballroom — while adding the upscale contemporary amenities you'd expect at a Rocco Forte hotel. Each of the 100 rooms and suites epitomizes good taste, with Carrara marble bathrooms and exquisite Sicilian floor tile. Pack your bathing suit as the outdoor swimming pool gives "The White Lotus" vibes. The well-equipped gym and fabulous spa are a health-conscious traveler's dream.

On-site restaurant Florio is widely regarded as one of the city's best eateries. Overlooking tiered gardens and the sea, the location is matched by a menu of fresh seafood and pasta made in-house. 

Centrally located Grand Hotel et Des Palmes is within walking distance of many popular attractions. The lobby is pure eye candy, with frescoed ceilings, stained glass windows, rich tapestries, and a marble staircase. Rooms range from compact to the opulent Wagner Suite, which boasts crown moldings embellished with gold, a crystal chandelier, and a grand piano. 

Have a drink at the bar, a stylish watering hole that attracts juniper-loving locals thanks to a menu of hard-to-find gin and tonics from across the globe. 

How to Get to Palermo 

Italian airline Neos flies nonstop from JFK to Palermo twice weekly from May to September. United will begin seasonal Newark to Palermo service on May 21, 2025, operating three times a week.  

Getting Around

Palermo has a network of buses and trams but they tend to run at a leisurely pace as opposed to on a schedule. With many attractions clustered in the city's center, a comfy pair of walking shoes, supplemented by an occasional taxi, might be all you need. 

The Best Time to Go

Summer can be very hot and air-conditioning is not a given. May, June, and September are the best times to visit Palermo, with warm days and refreshing nights.