Gazing down at the Mekong River winding between mountains while standing by the small temple on top of Luang Prabang's Phousi Hill reveals one of the best views in Southeast Asia. The inimitable Mekong flows through six countries, and although it's only the third-longest river in Asia, it's undeniably the most famous thanks to its place in popular culture — featuring heavily in movies and literature of the 20th century. However, I decided to park my preconceived filmic notions and explore the wonders of northern Laos, starting in Luang Prabang before embarking on an elegant, round-trip river cruise.

Trying to put a finger on what makes Luang Prabang so captivating is a nebulous exercise. Is it the unspoilt, preserved old town? The serenity fostered by the temples that line the streets? The slow pace of life as locals potter by? All these things certainly add to the Luang Prabang zen. But it's only in recent years that the low-key UNESCO heritage town has seen a luxury travel boom — albeit a "quiet luxury" one.

The evolution has been subtle and appeals to travelers seeking upscale experiences that embody understated, personalized stays and service — a sentiment that perfectly aligns with the town's laid-back ambience.

Following the Rosewood Luang Prabang, Pullman Luang Prabang, and Avani+ Luang Prabang Hotel, all opening their respective doors in 2018, river cruise company Mekong Kingdoms launched its intimate five-star vessel, Bohème, which is the largest and most luxurious cruiser on the Laos stretch of the mighty Mekong. This liner took its maiden voyage in December 2024 and has brought with it a new perspective on the Luang Prabang region, inviting guests to take in Laos' culture.

On my recent four-day sailing, Bohème gently glided along taking our small group to villages and natural wonder sites, while providing immersive experiences with knowledgeable and skilled local guides. Between excursions, the ship's three spacious decks ensured peace and comfort for all guests, whether we were lounging outside at the bar or indulging in spa treatments. Laos art adorned the wood-clad walls, and an onboard library filled with local history books was available for the eager reader. 

Day 1

I had been living next door in Thailand for three years yet hadn't had the opportunity to visit Laos, despite Luang Prabang being only a one-hour flight away. To say I was excited for this trip was an understatement. I boarded the Bohème at its Luang Prabang mooring, and was invited to the top deck for a welcome ceremony before heading to my spacious cabin, one of just 13.

While on deck, five elders from the Luang Prabang community led a traditional baci ceremony to bless the journey. We sat around a Pha Khwan offering (in this case, a marigold floral arrangement shaped like a pyramid), while prayers were recited by the elders, who tied white cotton strings around our wrists. Lao people maintain their ancient animistic faith, Phi, alongside Buddhism. There is a Phi belief that every human is composed of 32 organs, and each organ has a spirit protecting it. Tying the white string represents putting the spirits of all the organs back in harmony, as well as bringing good luck.

After the baci, we set sail towards the Upper Mekong, gliding past shimmering golden temples and equally colorful fishing boats that stacked up along the shore. As the sunset glowed orange behind the mountains, it was cocktail hour — where many an all-inclusive drink was poured.

Bohème then moored at Xang Hai village just before the Mekong's confluence with the River Ou, and we headed for dinner prepared by Chef Khone. The cuisine onboard the ship was exquisite, with the chef and his small team creating elevated farm-to-table plates of reimagined local dishes like pla kueng (a type of shrimp salad) in whiskey sauce and a starter of sesame seed and crunchy seaweed (which was cut from the Nam Khan river, which feeds into the Mekong). There were also French-inspired options such as a vegetable ratatouille.

Day 2

Waking up in my plush cabin, where the comfy bed looked out over my balcony terrace to the river, was a delight. Local design elements of geometric textiles and wood carved motifs were mindfully incorporated throughout the cabin, which has an en suite rain shower room stocked with fragrant toiletries that could rival any five-star property on land.

After indulging in a lavish buffet breakfast of local rice and salad dishes, Western-style eggs, and freshly baked pastries, a smaller ship ferried us through shallow waters to the Pak Ou Buddhist Caves. There's been a shrine here since the 8th century, when the ancient kings of the region visited to worship their river gods. Six-hundred years later, Luang Prabang and its neighboring townships started practicing Buddhism, and the caves were filled with thousands of Buddha statues.

After departing the caves, we set sail for Ban Xang Khong village, a short distance south. The hamlet is home to artisans who make Saa (mulberry bark) paper, which was historically used to wrap textiles and opium; its thickness kept the contents inside dry. After making some paper, we were served a tea brewed from silk worm poop, used traditionally as an herbal remedy for diabetes and heart disease. There are more than 50 cultural groups in Laos — all with different traditions — and our host explained how her mother hails from the Tai Meng people, who used silk worm cocoons for spinning their textiles.

Day 3

On day three, we cruised into Laos' Lower Mekong, drifting downstream past lush jungle until we arrived at Ban Chan, a 16th-century village renowned for its pottery. After a warm welcome from the artisans, we learned all about the traditional ceramic techniques before trying our hand at building our own bowls.

Back onboard, we moored at tranquil Muang Khay village, a convenient spot for whizzing to Kuang Si waterfalls early the following morning. After an extremely relaxing massage from one of the two therapists on the second-deck spa, I took part in a cocktail-making class with mixologist bar manager Nou, who crafted a delicious apple-honey cordial that was the foundation for a gin-based tipple as well as a mocktail.

Day 4

I was dubious about the early 8 a.m. departure to the falls, but experiencing the majesty of the cascading aquamarine waters that rush down three tiers (without the usual bus loads of people around) was truly a treat.

Back on board Bohème, it was time for a cooking class with Chef Khone, who taught us how to make a fish salad called goi pa. He explained how it's a simple dish but not made every day, as the catfish-like kung must be caught from the depths of the Nam Khan river. He served it with roasted sticky rice to add a crunchy texture and to absorb the spices, herbs, and citrus flavors he added. "Laos food uses a lot of earthy, spicy things," he said. "Be careful not to burn your mouth!"

Day 5 (add-on)

Finally, Bohème sailed back to Luang Prabang; however, as Mekong Kingdoms offers flexible itineraries, I was able to tack on an extra day to explore Luang Prabang. (And while I did a Luang Prabang round-trip, you can also start and/or end your cruise in the capital city of Vientiane to the south.)

"We adapt our itinerary depending on guests' interests," said cruise host Asri of the new ship, "It will be interesting to see what the public is interested in. I think some will want more cooking classes, while others might request a history guide. We're adding a yoga teacher to our onboard spa team, too."

After disembarking from the ship, I checked into the Avani+ Luang Prabang Hotel, an elegant hotel originally built in 1914 as French officers' quarters. The hotel staff, which leads city tours in buggies, openly shared stories about Luang Prabang. A host named James pointed out the temple where he'd been a novice monk as a child. And the hotel's manager, Hendra, described the 5 a.m. Tak Bat ceremony in the old town — where saffron-robed monks and novices walk silently through the streets collecting offerings — as "an iconic local experience." "It's a deeply spiritual and serene moment that connects visitors to the city's Buddhist traditions," he said.

I spent my final hours in Luang Prabang visiting Wat Xiengthong and Wat Wisunarat temples before taking on the town's bustling night market — all while plotting, in my head, my next visit to Laos.

When to Go

Weather-wise, September to February is the best time to visit Laos, as the temperature is mild and the rainy season (from June to August) is over. In October, Lai Heua Fai (the Lighting Festival) features a stunning parade of illuminated fire boats that begin their journey in the heart of town and gracefully float down the Mekong. 

How to Get There

Whether you opt to start your cruise in Luang Prabang or Vientiane, both cities are accessible by a new fast train from Bangkok. You can also take a short flight to Luang Prabang or Vientiane from Bangkok, Chiang Mai, and Hanoi.

Know Before You Go

To avoid queuing on arrival, pre-order your required tourist visa for Laos online, which costs $50 to stay for up to 90 days and takes approximately seven days to be approved.