With rolling green hills, turquoise lagoons, and endless golden beaches, Sumba is one of the world's last true unspoiled isles. Located in Indonesia to the southeast of Bali, this remote paradise is twice the size of its more famous neighbor, and until now, has remained in its shadow. However, thanks to a spate of stylish new hotels, things are about to change, with boutique properties popping up around the coast alongside the welcomed presence of hornbills, waterfalls, and the famed Sandalwood ponies.

While Sumba's natural scenery alone justifies the journey, what makes the island truly special is the local culture and Indigenous people who are opening up to interacting with travelers. Marupu villagers live as they have done for centuries. Led by a rato (a shaman), they follow an animistic belief system, and their stilted uma mbatangu houses (with high-pitched roofs carpeted in dried alang-alang grass) huddle around the megalithic tombs of their ancestors. Family pigs may snuffle through the undergrowth as children help their mothers and grandmothers deftly weave ikat cloth, while men farm the surrounding land.

Tourism has arrived in Sumba, but the sustainably focused island is accepting it on its own terms. New boutique hotels are family-run and have been hand-crafted by local carvers, and experiences are island-led, such as weaving classes by Sumbanese artisans, history lessons by local storytellers, and horseback rides by skilled Sumbanese equestrians.

When it comes to food, farm-to-fork culture is second nature in Sumba. Visitors can join bicycle rides to markets, where they'll find stallholders selling vegetables they've cultivated in their own gardens or piles of sardines they've plucked from the sea and dried. This island is also planning for the future by creating hospitality schools for the next generation of Sumbanese hoteliers who will introduce future holidaymakers to the slow life.

Sumba is an island of adventure that promises quiet coves, wild surf, and memories that will last a lifetime. Here's everything you need to know for planning a trip.

What to Do

Take the opportunity to visit a traditional Sumbanese village. While many are not yet used to visitors, some, such as Buku Bani and Waikaroko, welcome guests. That said,  parts of the villages — such as the hut of the rato — will still be off-limits. You will need a guide, whom you can book through your hotel, for respectful introductions to the villagers and to help you understand their customs.

The Sumbanese are skilled artisans, which you can experience first-hand through Karaja Sumba, a social enterprise for empowering women and girls that works with 15 island villages. At workshops in Kampung Liling and Kapung Letehakapuna, visitors can learn how to dye clothes with natural colors that have been foraged from the jungle, as well as try their hand at traditional ikat weaving on a loom.

Wild swimmers will want to visit Lake Weekuri, a natural saltwater lagoon surrounded by limestone rocks and palm trees. Follow the nature-filled trail along the clifftops to see the sea crashing against the cliffs before carefully descending stone steps into the calm lagoon. Don't be surprised if you have the water to yourself.

Expert surfers are sure to have heard of Occy's Left, a surf break that can challenge even the most dedicated waveriders. However, beginners will also be able to find a space where they can hang ten. It's advisable to book a surf lesson through your hotel to make sure you choose the correct swath of water for you.

Some of the waters around the island are so calm that you can go swimming with the famed Sandalwood horses, which Arab traders swapped for fragrant local wood in the 8th century. Hotels like Nihi Sumba and The Sanubari offer organized opportunities for this amazing experience.

Where to Eat

Walk past a turtle hatchery en route to The Nio Beach Club at Nihi Sumba, which serves freshly caught fish underneath grass-roofed pavilions lining the water's edge.

Another must-visit spot is the Sumba Hospitality School, which has a boutique hotel and restaurant on-site, plus its own permaculture garden. Its restaurant, Makan Dulu, follows a farm-to-fork concept featuring Indonesian foods such as ayam rebus, a chicken and potato hot pot, and pandan pancakes with coconut sauce.

Ro'o Luwa Restaurant in Southwest Sumba also serves Indonesian dishes, such as rowe luwa (sweet potato porridge), within its traditional thatched villa. The cozy Warang Gulu Garam set in a leafy garden is sure to tempt with a spicy nasi goreng rice dish.

Cap Karoso resort, which is co-owned by Fabrice Ivara (who once ran the famous French food blog Coup de Fourchette), has an organic farm and offers multiple restaurants. For casual dining, The Beach Club features dishes such as padang-style beef rendang (a spicy rich stew) alongside fish caught within a few meters of the hotel — there's also the option of wood-fired pizza cooked in an Italian Acunto oven. Its upscale restaurant, Julang, welcomes an array of visiting chefs from across the globe, such as Michelin-starred Portuguese chef Gil Nogueira and acclaimed Parisian chef Celine Pham.

Where to Stay

Barefoot chic lovers might have heard of Nihi Sumba, which opened in 2001 and was twice named the world's best hotel by Travel + Leisure. Inspired by a Sumbanese village, this eco-chic resort, surrounded by jungle and near the renowned surf break Occy's Left, prides itself on its commitment to sustainability. It's powered by solar and uses wastewater for irrigation, and its villas are built from reclaimed wood.

For many years, Nihi Sumba was the only luxury resort on the island; however, it has recently been joined by a raft of new boutique hotels. In 2023, French couple Eve and Fabrice Ivara opened Cap Karoso, which lies in its namesake bay in the island's north. Book one of its spacious villas — each with a private pool — and pay a visit to the sprawling spa that's built to look like a traditional uma mbatangu.

A 10-minute drive away, Alamayah, owned by Australian surfers Jess and Daniel Baldock, offers six suites with either jungle or ocean views. The private terrace of the Tahik suite is built around a coconut tree, and the Tana suite features a Sumbanese thatched roof. After a day in the surf, relax in the hotel's Turkish hammam. 

When to Go

The best time to visit Sumba is during the April to October dry season, when the island turns into a golden savannah. In July, horse riders from all over Indonesia gather for the 1001 Sandalwood Horse Parade, a festival showcasing the animals, as well as 2,000 weavers from across the island.

The rainy season falls between November and March, but events continue on. In February and March, the annual 16th-century Pasola Festival, held to appease the spirits and ensure a good harvest, showcases a mock battle on horseback, traditional dances, and musical performances. The exact date of the festival varies, as it's based on when the bau nyale (sea worm) appears on the shores of West Sumba.

How to Get There

To reach Sumba, you first need to fly to Bali's Ngurah Rai International Airport in Denpasar, where flights to Sumba depart daily and last about 50 minutes. Airlines include Nam Air and Wings Air.

Know Before You Go

• Ridesharing apps have yet to arrive on Sumba, so it's best to ask your hotel to arrange transportation.
  
  
• Before you pull out your camera to photograph anyone, ask if they are OK with it, as Sumba is new to tourism.
  
  
• ATMs can be found in larger towns but not in rural areas, and the local currency is Indonesia Rupiah, which you can get at the Bali airport. Cash is preferred for shops and markets, while hotels will take credit cards.

Combine With

As international flights touch down in Bali, you easily have the opportunity to visit another Indonesian island enroute to Sumba. Head to Seminyak or Uluwatu for the beaches and to Ubud in the mountains where you'll find the island's cultural capital.