If you’ve been thinking about visiting Tokyo you’re in good company. More than 3 million travelers touched down every month of the spring and summer this year, making it Japan’s busiest in history. I experienced this first person in May when the city was filled to capacity, making everything from slurping a bowl of ramen to visiting Senso-ji shrine into a full-body contact event. I loved the electricity of the vibrant city, but after a few days of nonstop churn, I needed a break.

That’s how I discovered a peaceful, off-the-beaten-track getaway less than a two-hour train ride from Tokyo Station: Izu Kogen on the lush Izu Peninsula, which boasts Mount Fuji on one side and the Pacific Ocean on the other. The destination is known for its staggering cliff views, gorgeous hiking trails, and natural hot springs that have been harnessed into sybaritic onsen soaking pools. 

While beloved by Tokyoites, it’s still mostly unknown to foreign tourists. This means that prices are geared toward locals, making a trip here quite affordable — especially after Tokyo. 

Getting Started 

Izu Kogen is a sleepy area mainly consisting of onsen ryokans (traditional Japanese inns with natural hot baths) and vacation houses that many locals visit when they want to unplug and enjoy nature. There isn't a huge amount to do in Izu Kogen other than relax in your accommodation and enjoy nature, which, to me, sounded heavenly.

But first, I needed to get out of Tokyo. Hurrying past passengers and navigating the myriad platforms of the always frenetic Tokyo Station, I, along with my husband and teenage son, hopped on a regional train to Izu Kogen around 1 p.m. As the train picked up speed and distance heading east, the scenery became greener and high rises gave way to rice paddies, countryside, and a sparkling coastline, before eventually being replaced with the lofty pine trees of the Izu Peninsula forest. We arrived a little before 3 p.m., strolling through the peaceful Izu Kogen station where instead of crowds we encountered teddy bears lining the benches (a nod to a nearby teddy bear museum) and less than a dozen other travelers. 

The smell of salt greeted us as we left the station, as well as abundant greenery with flower- and tree-lined streets leading from the station. We chose to walk to our destination, Hanafubuki, a 22-room traditional ryokan about a 10-minute stroll away (although a cab can easily be called). 

There’s a hush that feels like a breeze that surrounds the traditional buildings on the grounds of Hanafubuki, which comprise seven private hot springs, three different woven-tatami mat dining rooms, and the multi-room guest suites all dotted throughout a private woods traversed by pebbled footpaths and marked with traditional red torii gates.

From the moment we approached, we felt like true VIPs. Our bags were taken from our shoulders, our shoes placed by the door and replaced with sandals, and seats were pulled out at the table where a number of small treats were presented to help us find “calm, relaxation” at the resort. 

First, we were offered restorative mori no acha tea, a custom blend of 10 herbs including lemongrass, turmeric, and pine needles from the surrounding forest. Traditional small sweets, crafted from barley sugar, came next, and then hand-pressed kuromoji essential oil, created from local trees, for some deep breathing inhalations, all to help create a peaceful segue into the ryokan. 

It was the beginning of a worry-free, limited-decision-making stay. Multi-course dinners and breakfasts are included in the price, as is unlimited, 24-hour access to the private hot springs.  The only extras we encountered were sake and cocktails from the bar and ice cream to eat in the hot tub (about $3), which I highly recommend. (The price for our one-night stay for three people was around $600.) 

Izu Kogen

A stay begins with a lesson on how to wrap and wear a yukata – the long robes tied with a sash that are the customary wear at a ryokan. It’s perfectly acceptable to don these to both meals and to the hot tubs, and our room was stocked with an array of sizes and multiple robes to change into, plus traditional geta cedarwood sandals, split-toe tabi sandal socks, and an array of complimentary toiletries ranging from toothbrushes to multi-step skincare kits.

Our villa had a massive dining area, with seating for six, two tatami mat sleeping areas, a divided bathroom, and a kitchenette. Ample windows and an outdoor terrace allowed us to keep an eye on the natural surroundings. 

Soak in the Peace and Quiet

One of the main draws that brought me to Hanafubuki are the natural hot springs that bubble up from geothermal pools. The pure spring water is filled with minerals purported to have healing properties and to relax muscles (although I think the steaming water takes care of that on its own). And fun fact: The hot springs in the Izu Peninsula are so highly regarded that the Four Seasons in Tokyo actually ships in the water from here for their spa’s soaking pool.

There are seven options for soaking here — all private use (which means that, among other positives, tattoos are allowed and also mixed-sex use, which isn’t usually the case at public baths in Japan). All of the onsens are in wooden bathhouse enclosures with showers and toiletries, and all have views of the surrounding forest either through floor-to-ceiling screens or wide open windows (don’t worry, with the thick woods no one can see in). The water in the large deep tubs steams like it’s just been poured out of a boiling kettle; to make it more “soakable” temperature, we turned on the cold water handle until it was slightly less searing. Then there’s nothing to do but settle in, soak, and listen to the sounds of the water lapping over the edge of the pool and the noises of the forest. 

Dinner Time

Doing not much at all surprisingly builds an appetite. Which may be why ryokans focus so much on feeding guests, and dinner was our introduction to the generous dining culture. The menu comprised 10 courses, each plated on hand-crafted dishes and featuring only seasonal items and delicacies. A few highlights included cooked clams with feathery ostrich ferns and delicate bamboo shoots; sashimi with with spring onions and shiso flower buds; a large, deep-fried shrimp dumpling in a rich lily bulb broth; charcoal grilled eel; and a palate cleanser of delicate strawberry and wasabi sorbet.  

After dinner, stepping into the dark forest, listening to chirping frogs and clicking crickets, the bustle of Tokyo felt a world away.  

Day 2

The next morning started with the sound of singing birds and light pouring through the viewing windows. I had spotted two small twin onsens just below our villa, so I started the day with a quick dip. Then it’s time to don our yakata, which has easily become my favorite piece of clothing, and wander the wooded trails from our villa to breakfast. 

The evening before we were asked to choose between a western breakfast, a traditional local fish breakfast, and a rice porridge option. I chose the latter, my husband went for the western, and my son chose the fish. 

My husband sighed a breath of relief when he saw the western option came with coffee (and cutlery), my son was incredibly happy with the whole fish and large bowl of rice that came with his option, and I was served a cauldron of bubbling rice porridge accompanied by nine beautifully-plated bites (pickles, omelet, tofu, small sardines, and more) in a large bento box, that completely suited both my usual morning oatmeal ritual and also a love of breakfast buffet variety. 

After breakfast, it was finally time to lace up our sneakers to explore the coastline. The highlights of the area, other than recharging and getting off the beaten path at your accommodation, really are the spectacular natural features of the area. 

Izu Kogen is probably most famous for the stunning jagged coastline called the Jogasaki Coast featuring nearly 6 miles of hiking trails with stunning water views. You can hike the entire trail in about 3 hours, or break it up into shorter sections, which is what we chose to do. 

Wandering out from the ryokan brought us to a trickling stream bordered by a walkway and tucked beneath bowers of greenery. Following this for less than half a mile took us to the Jogaski nature trail. Another quarter mile and the Hashidate Suspension Bridge, connecting two perilous-looking spits of cliff, and the towering, 300-foot high Tajima No Taki waterfall came into view. 

This is the original forest bathing, with nothing but the rustling of leaves and the rush of the water to distract you from your hike. And then, suddenly, there’s the big reveal when you emerge from the woods to discover the pounding sea hundreds of yards below. 

With one night and two days, there’s plenty of time for the 3-mile path. If hiking is on your must-do list for Japan, rent a vacation home here or stay in a more traditional accommodation and explore new trails. 

At the end of my hike, it was time to pack up and return to Tokyo. Completely relaxed, completely full, and completely happy with my decision to escape the city for a peaceful getaway.

When To Go:

There’s never truly a bad time to go to Izu Kogen and the Izu Peninsula, but there are some seasonal highlights. In late February and early March the Kawazu cherry blossoms are in bloom (and the area is known as a great cherry blossom viewing spot); from May to October is when the forest is at its most green and lush; in late October into November, a visit will be rewarded with autumnal foliage. 

How To Get There:

From Tokyo, take the JR East Odoriko Limited Express train to Izu Kogen, about a two-hour trip. Or, catch a high-speed Shinkansen train to Atami station (68 minutes) and then a regional train to Izu Kogen.

How To Get Around:

Walking is the easiest way to get around the town of Izu Kogen; buses are the best way to explore beyond the immediate area. 

The Best Things To Do:

Mount Omuro

An extinct volcano covered in grass with a peculiar inverted bowl shape at the peak, Mount Omuro is equally interesting to visit for the views as it is to walk around the crater, plus you get to take a fun chairlift to the summit. (To get to Mount Omuro, take the Shaboten Koen bound bus from Izu Kogen Station, about a 20-minute ride.)

Izu Teddy Bear Museum

All things stuffed bear are on offer at the Izu Teddy Bear Museum, including ones to photograph and ones to buy. Studio Ghibli characters including Totoro are on display, too.

Izu Shaboten Zoo 

Free-roaming capybaras that have their own hot springs are the stars of the Izu Shaboten Zoo; there are also monkeys, lemurs, birds, and cactus gardens. 

New York Lamp Museum & Flower Garden

The New York Lamp Museum is actually a collection of colorful Tiffany lamps complemented by flowering strolling gardens; there’s a lovely café here as well. 

Where to to Stay:

My family and I enjoyed our time at Hanafubuki, but the peninsula is filled with ryokans, inns, and hotels. Yokikan is another great option. Although this 110-year-old ryokan is a little further away from the station, about a 15-minute uphill walk, the payoff is the great views of the surrounding area and coastline — even better from the two onsen baths located further up the mountain and accessible by vintage tram railway. Some “premier” rooms even have private baths fed with hot spring water, however, for the most part this is a communal bathing ryokan (meaning the hot springs are divided by gender, and bathing suits and tattoos are not allowed).