If you’re a sparkling wine aficionado, Champagne is a magical, can’t-miss region filled with romantic châteaux, charming towns ― and all the bubbles you can drink. Right now is an exciting time to visit, as you’ll find new and recently-opened buzzy spots, as well as hidden gems for those in the know.
Located 100 miles east of Paris, Champagne has two main cities: Reims (pronounced “RAHns”) and Epernay. Only sparkling wine produced in this region under very specific and strict regulations can be labeled and sold as Champagne. Wineries here are referred to as “houses,” many of which have miles of underground caves cut out from limestone and chalk where thousands of bottles slumber away until they’re ready.
Champagne’s reputation as a beverage reserved for toasting celebrations and special occasions actually belies its food-friendliness. Though you might be accustomed to drinking it in a flute, don’t be surprised to see it arrive in larger wine glasses in tasting rooms and restaurants. Winemakers (rightfully) consider Champagne a serious wine, deserving of a vessel that shows off its complex aromas and flavors, and its subtle nuances.
As a travel and wine and spirits writer who’s been to wine regions all over the world, I’ve had the opportunity to travel to Champagne a handful of times to tour, taste, and explore. During these trips, I immersed myself in the region: These are my picks for the must-try hotels, restaurants, bars, shops and sights, plus a few inside tips I’ve gleaned along the way.
Where to Taste:
This summer sees the long-awaited reopening of Champagne Taittinger’s renovated historic fourth-century Gallo-Roman chalk pits and cellars in Reims, which are certified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. To coincide with the reopening, the house is offering three new immersive tasting experiences that focus on art, history, and the culinary. The Instant Gourmet tour includes a video introducing the brand, a guided tour of the caves, an educational guided tasting in a private room, and canapés from two-Michelin-star-chef Philippe Mille.
Though it’s not easy to snag a reservation for a tour and tasting at Champagne Billecart-Salmon in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, it’s completely worth it to taste the elegantly balanced wines from this lauded family-owned house, which was founded in 1818. Would-be visitors should fill out an online form up to three months in advance of an intended visit — staff recommends submitting the form three months to the exact date for the best chances. The two-hour experience includes a visit to the gardens filled with native wildflowers, butterflies and bees; the Clos Saint-Hilaire vineyard, a one-hectare parcel focused on biodiversity; the vat house; barrel and cask rooms; and the 17th-century cellars, ending with a tasting of a rotating selection of three of their Champagnes, including at least one that’s vintage.
It’s widely accepted that Champagne ages better in large-format bottles. If you agree that bigger is better, head to the southern part of the region to Champagne Drappier. The family-run producer offers wine in magnums and jeroboams up to melchizedeks — the world’s largest Champagne bottle size, which holds 40 standard bottles or around 240 glassfuls of bubbly. The 8th-generation organic producer is located in Urville, in the heart of the Bar-sur-Aube, and their expressions show off the depth and complexity of Pinot Noir-based Champagne. Exploring the unique wines of this area is definitely worth the trip.
If you really don’t know where to start planning your trip to Champagne, Gina Lyons can help. During my last visit to Champagne, I met up with Lyons, who hosts regular trips to the region through her company A Vine Affair. She also offers customized planning to help visitors navigate the myriad of tasting options. So if you have a penchant for grower Champagne, high-end vintage bottles, or those founded or made by women winemakers, A Vine Affair has you covered.
What to See:
Pressoria, an interactive, immersive Champagne museum, opened its door a few years ago in Aÿ-Champagne in the former site used by Maison Pommery to press their grapes. Exhibits in the sensory journey include touching the chalk that composes the region’s unique soils, watching vines seemingly grow under your feet via a projector that displays on the floor, smelling the aromas of the main grape varieties, standing inside a virtual bottle of bubbly, and, of course, tasting a few representative bottles. There’s also an onsite prix fixe restaurant that’s closed as of press time but reopening soon in a new space.
You’ll definitely want to visit the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Reims while you’re in town. But rather than wander the nave, apse, and chapels on your own, taking a guided tour will let you discover the easy-to-miss historical details in this church, considered to be one of the most important pieces of Gothic architecture. (The lower windows of a south façade, for example, pay homage to monk Dom Perignon and his importance to the French wine industry.)
If you’re on the lookout for a unique souvenir, Maison Fossier in Reims is the only bakery left in France that makes the Biscuits Roses de Reims. Invented in the late 1600s and popular ever since they were served in 1775 at the coronation of Louis XVI, these pink cookies are like a cross between biscotti and a ladyfinger. Only slightly sweet, they’re meant to be dunked into (what else?) a glass of Champagne.
Where to Eat:
Opened last year, L’Extra is a Michelin Guide restaurant in Reims’ city center that focuses on accessibility and inclusivity, with staff members in the kitchen and dining room with mental disabilities. Founders Matthieu Saint-Guilhem and Gonzague Peugnet — who can be seen patiently assisting his servers — are committed to providing opportunities to qualified staff members while giving guests a unique experience. Beyond that, the menu is just sublime: think skate wing with spelt risotto, nettle jus and beurre noisette and an espuma of asparagus with Reims ham.
For tapas matched with local bubbles as well as Burgundian, Bordeaux, and Loire bottles, Le Coq Rouge is a casual, fun restaurant in the heart of Reims. The menu is listed on chalkboards, and shared plates are the way to go, from charcuterie (the speck is delicious), fromage, and croque jambon to escargots, sardines, and prawns.
Where to Stay:
The Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa generated all the buzz when it opened in 2018 — with good reason, as there’s really no other property like it in the area. Located in Champillon not far from Epernay, the hotel has 47 rooms (and a pool) that overlook nearby villages and vineyards, and room keys come with a flute of Leclerc Briant, their house Champagne.
Among the several dining concepts is Le Bellevue, a brasserie that boasts 180-degree views over the Epernay and Marne Valleys, where hundreds of crystal pendants dangling from the ceiling are reminiscent of all the bubbles patiently waiting to be uncorked. From cheese to caviar to shellfish, kitchen ingredients are made to be paired with Champagne; Brittany blue lobster and linguine tossed with a lobster citrus sauce is a must-order. The hotel can also book unique Champagne-soaked experiences including a hot air balloon ride, picnic, and tastings at some of the most exclusive houses.
Perched atop a hill overlooking the Epernay Valley, Hostellerie Briqueterie & Spa reopened a few months ago after a three-month renovation. Its 40 rooms and suites are uniquely styled and meld traditional and contemporary décor, with Maison Caulières sustainable toiletries, Nespresso coffee machines, and Marshall speakers. A hexagonal heated indoor swimming pool and jacuzzi overlook the garden, and the spa (the first Spa Maison Caulières in France) features two treatment rooms and a hammam, with treatments utilizing natural and essential oils. The light-filled restaurant highlights French cuisine with ingredients sourced from the garden, available à la carte and as prix fixe tasting menus. Recent standouts include French trout with marinated turnips and radishes with a rhubarb sauce, suckling lamb confit with glazed shallots and strawberries scented with lime, hay cream, and sorbet.
If you prefer to stay in town, La Caserne Chanzy is the only luxury hotel in the heart of Reims, housed in the city’s former firehouse. Many of its 89 rooms as well as its outdoor terrace overlook Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Reims, with elements that evoke the region like pendant lights that look like Champagne bottles and lined carpets reminiscent of aerial views of the vineyards. The Champagne bar has 450 effervescent options, and restaurant La Grande Georgette is the name of the original fire truck, which, by tradition, was also the name of the captain’s wife.
How To Get to the Champagne Region:
The best way to explore the area, especially if you’re staying for a few days, is by car. If you’re coming from Paris, it’s about an hour and a half to two hours, depending on traffic and to which part of the region you’re headed. If you don’t plan on renting a car and are only visiting for a quick day trip, you can take one of the high-speed TGV trains from Paris’ Gare de l’Est to either Reims or Épernay, depending on where you’ll be spending most of your time, which take an hour or an hour and a half, respectively. If you stay in Epernay, you’ll easily be able to get around by car or by foot. The Reims area is more spread out; purchasing a Reims City Pass gives you access to bus and tram rides as well as admission or discounts to some attractions and sights and a train ride between Reims and Epernay.
The Best Time To Go:
As with most wine regions, harvest time, which runs here from mid-September to the beginning of October, is a popular time to visit Champagne. During this time you may see workers picking grapes in the vineyard sorting and pressing them back at the winery. In autumn, the weather is still pleasant, and the sun casts a romantic golden hue on everything. However, the area can also be crowded during this time, with tours and tastings booking up even further in advance. Since Champagne houses are busy with the work of the harvest, they might not be able to provide as much attention to visitors.
Alternatively, late spring and summer are also delightful times to go. The grayness and rain of the early spring will mostly have passed, and the weather is warmer and sunnier. If your hotel or inn has an outdoor pool overlooking the vineyards, or your room has a vineyard-facing balcony, you’ll be able to enjoy it both during the day and the evenings during this season.
What To Know Before You Go:
- Before your arrival, check to see if the Champagne houses you want to visit require reservations for tours or tastings — or even if they accept visitors.
- Book a tour at a larger house like Moët & Chandon or Veuve-Clicquot to get an overview of the many steps that go into the fascinating process of making Champagne, which will give you more of an appreciation during your other tastings.
- Plan on a maximum of two or three tastings per day, and don’t be afraid to spit if you’re feeling like it’s getting to be too much or you don’t like something — it’s what the professionals do.
- Champagne also makes still wines from the grapes permitted in the region, mainly Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier, and Pinot Noir. Seek them out at shops and on restaurant wine lists, as they’re difficult to find outside of the region.
- Consider bringing an empty suitcase to bring home some hard-to-find bottles that you can’t buy at home. There are companies that specialize in luggage with special inserts to keep your liquid souvenirs safe.