I took a deep breath and stepped into the street, watching as the motorbikes whizzed by me from seemingly all directions. It was 2014, and my first time visiting Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam’s most populous city. The chaos, beeping horns, and pork-scented smoke were overwhelming back then — but now, a decade later, I look forward to the frenetic orchestra. And luckily, I can experience it more often: For three months every year, I live in Hoi An, a rural town in central Vietnam an hour’s flight from the capital.
To me, Vietnam — an S-shaped country whose coastline spans more than 2,000 miles —reminds me of what Thailand was like 20 years ago before it became one of the most frequented countries in the world. (And new long-stay visas and the impending "White Lotus" effect will likely bring even more crowds of tourists to Thailand in the coming years.)
In Vietnam, travelers of all kinds — from foodies to adventurers to lie-in-the-sand beach lovers — will find something to love. There’s also a burgeoning luxury hotel scene and incredible street food (not to mention some new Michelin-star restaurants).
My advice? Book a trip to this Southeast Asian destination while it’s still somewhat underrated.
Best for Food Fanatics
The capital city of Hanoi blends colonial architecture, tree-lined boulevards, and fantastic food. Known throughout the country for its phở, bún chả, and egg coffee — and for serving the best versions of these dishes — Hanoi is the go-to among Vietnamese food lovers, myself included. If you want to try them all (and much more), book a food tour with Ella Hanoi Food Tour, a locally-owned, female-run experience.
Phở might be the most well-known Vietnamese dish stateside — and for a steaming bowl of the fragrant soup, my pick is always Phở Bát Đàn. At this 100-year-old institution, you’ll find locals slurping up its beloved beef phở.
However, my favorite Vietnamese dish is actually bún chả, which combines grilled pork patties (almost like meatballs), vermicelli noodles, and an umami-rich dipping sauce. To try it, follow the pork-scented smoke spilling out of the alley to Quán Bún Chả - 74 Hàng Quạt and get comfortable on one of the plastic stools.
When the jetlag kicks in — and it often does — egg coffee is the perfect pick-me-up. The strong coffee topped with a custard-like foam made from whipped egg yolks and sweetened condensed milk is especially delicious at Ma Xó Cafe, which has peaceful views of Trúc Bạch Lake.
Where to stay: The city’s newest five-star hotel, Capella Hanoi, is delightfully over-the-top. The opera-themed hotel is gilded and glittering with plush rooms and the city’s best cocktails; order the Nacional Champion, made with pineapple rum, cardamom, and Champagne.
Best for City Explorers
Honking motorbikes, bustling street food stalls, and a perpetually climbing skyline make Ho Chi Minh City (or Saigon) one of Southeast Asia’s biggest and most buzzing cities. Compared to Hanoi, the pace here is kicked up a notch — or 10.
There are endless activities to choose from, including sightseeing motorbike tours by the female-led XO Tours, where you’ll get to check out the city’s biggest attractions, including the Central Post Office, the Burning Monk Memorial, and Notre Dame Cathedral. At the War Remnants Museum, take in hundreds of photographs, artifacts, and documents from the Vietnam War and other conflicts.
For a cosmopolitan night out, join a speakeasy cocktail crawl with Secret Cocktail Experiences followed by dinner at the Michelin-starred Anan Saigon, where the chef puts a creative spin on street food classics like a Da Lat-style pizza topped with black truffle and a bánh mì made with Wagyu beef.
Where to stay: The brand-new JW Marriott Saigon, in the heart of the city, has unbeatable views and 565 refined rooms and suites spread between two skyscrapers. Escape from the city chaos at its outdoor pool or seven-room spa.
Best for Adventurous Travelers
While most travelers head to Sa Pa for a mountain escape, the town and district of Mu Cang Chai is arguably the country’s most spectacular place to take in some natural beauty. Tall, ultra-steep rice terraces blanket small villages, where children walk with pet pigs and the pace of life slows way down.
Reachable via a seven-hour private car or motorbike northwest of Hanoi, it’s worth the trip just to see the skyscraper-tall rice terraces. Believe me when I say there is no real tourism infrastructure here — and adventurous, resourceful travelers will take lots of pleasure in aimlessly exploring remote rural Vietnam, witnessing daily life, and even chasing waterfalls. Ask your hotel to help you rent a motorbike so you can cruise around the region.
Mu Cang Chai is also a trekker’s paradise; you can create custom hiking itineraries with Mu Cang Chai Tours. Just remember to visit before the rice is harvested in September and October, and the landscape turns from golden rice to brown mud.
Where to stay: Garrya Mu Cang Chai, which will open later this year, is the first luxury property in an extremely undeveloped area. This all-bamboo hotel, a part of the Banyan Group, has panoramic views of the surrounding rice-filled mountains and will offer several local cultural activities.
Best for Culture Seekers
In central Vietnam, every building in Hoi An’s Old Town is painted a sunflower yellow, matching the hue of its rice fields during harvest season. Once a stop on the Silk Road, this small riverside town has maintained its charm and culture — home to Chinese-style shophouses, ancient tailoring traditions, and the famous Japanese Bridge dating back to the 16th century.
I’ve spent days wandering Old Town’s boutiques and alleys, which are filled with restaurants, temples, and tailor -shops. LiMe is my favorite for linen clothing. I recently had three tops, a pair of shorts, and a skirt made there for $70.
Every hotel offers free bicycles to guests, which you can ride through town and among wind-swept rice paddies. You can even cycle to tok, a serene, upscale restaurant set amid the rice paddies, for Vietnamese dishes made with ingredients harvested from an on-site garden.
You can’t leave without trying Hoi An’s traditional cao lầu, a local noodle dish with pork and herbs. The best one I’ve had is from Cao lầu Không Gian Xanh, a small family-run restaurant with kitschy décor and perfectly chewy noodles.
Where to stay: The Anantara Hoi An offers the ideal riverside stay. Steps from Old Town, it is the perfect jumping-off point to explore, and the pool is a welcome reprieve when you return. Namia River Retreat, a stylish luxury wellness resort, will open in December.
Best for Beach Lovers
Vietnam has more than 2,000 miles of coast, so it’s no shock that stunning beach resorts dot its sugary sand and emerald bays. And the resorts are the experience.
In Central Vietnam, The InterContinental Danang has an exceptional stretch of private sand on Bãi Bắc Bay. Designed by the award-winning Bill Bensley, its glammed-up villas are hidden in the lush monkey-filled forest with ocean vistas and private pools. The crescent-shaped beach is perfect for swimming or fishing on a traditional circular coconut basket boat.
Several hundred miles down the coast near Quy Nhon is Zannier Bãi San Hô. This ultra-remote resort has 73 villas spread across its pristine bay. Its three villa styles are designed in various traditional Vietnamese styles, like a fishing hut and the traditional home of the Ede ethnic group. Besides swimming, the waters off this private beach are teeming with coral perfect for snorkeling.
Getting there: For years, traveling along the coast entailed long and bumpy car rides or expensive flights. But now, visitors can do it in style and comfort aboard The Vietage. This luxury train car from Da Nang to Quy Nhon rides through the countryside while guests indulge in a three-course meal and bottomless drinks.
When to Go:
Vietnam is a long country, so the answer depends on where you’re going because regions have different “best” seasons from north to south. Generally speaking, temperatures are hotter between May and October — and with the humidity often comes rain. November to April is cooler and drier and an ideal time to visit cities. If it’s a beach vacation you’re after in the central coast, your best bet is May or June before the crowds come in July and August.
How to Get There:
From the West Coast, Vietnam Airlines has nonstop (almost 16-hour) flights from San Francisco to Ho Chi Minh City — but from any other major city in the U.S., expect to connect.
Know Before You Go:
- Vietnam is a large country with nearly 100 million citizens (the 15th most populated country in the world). Roughly half of the population speaks English, but be prepared to whip out Google Translate on occasion.
- Vietnam has passport and visa requirements, so plan in advance. Your U.S. passport needs to be valid for six months beyond the dates of your trip and you need a blank page for the entry stamp. You can apply for a travel visa online (though note the page can be glitchy). Expect it to take between three and 10 days to arrive electronically.
- Before you rent a motorbike, speak to your travel insurance about whether or not you will be covered in case of an accident. Drivers typically need a motorbike license in their home country and an international license compatible with Vietnam to be covered by most insurance.
- Don’t be afraid to pull up a little plastic stool and try different street food throughout the country. And if you don’t know the name of the dish they’re serving, just point.
- Download Grab (Asia’s version of Uber) to get around via car or on the back of a motorbike. You can also order food on the app to be sent to your hotel.