It was 10 p.m. Wrapped in a thick yak-wool blanket and warmed by a hot-water bottle, I was floating down the obsidian ribbon of the Punatsangchhu River, cradled by darkness. The ride was as smooth as a dram of Bhutanese whisky, with the Himalayan breeze kissing my cheeks. Unlike traditional rafting, this experience required no paddling — we had our very own gondolier-like guide who seamlessly navigated the night water. This was luxury rafting.

Plucking a drangyen (a lute-like instrument), our musician in the raft behind us sang boedra, a genre of courtly Tibetan folk music, his voice rising and falling like the river itself. The Punakha Dzong, famed as Bhutan's most beautiful fortress, glowed in the distance behind us. As my eyes adjusted to the darkness, I watched ripples form and fade on the river's surface, the occasional swirl of current catching the starlight.

After an hour or so, we glided to the pebbled riverbank, where a traditional hot stone bath awaited, steam curling into the crisp winter air as molten river rocks hiss, releasing therapeutic minerals into the water. Leaning back in a wooden tub, I stared at the vast sky, thinking of astrology's influence on Bhutanese culture — the way the stars shape destinies here and the way they may have shaped mine.

I was seeing the Punatsangchhu as I've never seen it before: at night.

The river typically closes to rafting activities at 5 p.m., but luxury tour operator MyBhutan has unlocked its after-dark delights. And evening candlelit river-rafting rides in the subtropical town of Punakha, new as of 2024, are just one of the company's signature experiences. Other options include witnessing a rare cultural revival performance at Buddha Dordenma, the 169-foot gilded Buddha statue that looms over capital city Thimphu, and special dinners at secret locations.

MyBhutan's immersive tour offerings are indicative of Bhutan's evolution as a premium travel destination.

"Our version of luxury includes self care, clean air, serenity, and the opportunity to connect with welcoming communities," said Damcho Rinzin, Head of Bhutan's Department of Tourism. "Luxury travel, for us, is foremost regenerative. We focus on self-transformation and journeys that aren't easily found in other places."

It's been nearly eight years since I was last in Bhutan, when I was commissioned to write a guidebook, and things have indeed changed dramatically. Back then, most stays were at three-star hotels and eco-camps, and you needed a guide to visit even the major cities of Thimphu and Paro. Now more independent travel is possible, and with that has come more five-star accommodations, fine dining restaurants, and transformative experiences that connect visitors with the country's deep cultural roots and natural beauty.

This thoughtful blend of cultural preservation and modern luxury is reshaping Bhutan's travel identity, offering new depths of authenticity and comfort for those seeking something extraordinary.

Why Bhutan and Why Now?

In an era of overtourism, Bhutan stands out as a beacon of slow and mindful travel. A former hermit kingdom that only permitted foreigners to enter from 1974, it has long prioritized high-value, low-volume tourism that has helped it preserve its unique cultural heritage and conserve its pristine natural environment. These are just two of the four pillars of Gross National Happiness, the country's guiding philosophy introduced by the Fourth King in the early 1970s. When Bhutan reopened after the pandemic, it required visitors to pay an ambitious daily $200 Sustainable Development Fee (SDF), later halved to $100, to help fund essential government programs like infrastructure improvements, environmental protections, cultural preservation, and free education and healthcare (even for visiting foreigners).

As part of its post-pandemic revival, the world's first (and only) carbon-negative kingdom unveiled the fully restored 400-kilometer (248-mile) Trans Bhutan Trail, an ancient trade and pilgrimage route that spans the country from east to west.

And today, Bhutan is making headlines for its bold vision for the new Gelephu Mindfulness City (GMC), an initiative aimed at creating economic opportunities for its youth and revitalizing southern Bhutan. Moreover, it's envisioned as a next-generation economic hub — something akin to the "Hong Kong of the Himalayas" — that aims to attract global business while preserving the country's deep-rooted commitment to sustainability and well-being. The project recently made global headlines when Ed Sheeran performed in what has been called Bhutan's first international concert, raising funds for GMC's development. 

A New Lease on Luxury

In recent years, Bhutan has positioned itself firmly as a luxury travel destination, meeting visitor expectations for elevated experiences and four- and five-star hotels, moving away from large group travel to offering more individualized experiences.

Adding to its allure, it's emerging culturally in unexpected ways. Bhutan Wine Company, the kingdom's first winery, is crafting high-altitude vintages that tell a unique story of the region's carbon-negative terroir — and will soon be available (possibly this spring) at luxury hotels and at its new wine bar in Thimphu.

Also, under King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck's vision, Paro International Airport was transformed into an art gallery during the pandemic, showcasing local artists and traditional crafts curated by VAST Bhutan, a philanthropic contemporary artist collective.

Meanwhile, after undergoing a meticulous restoration, Bumthang's Wangduechhoeling Palace, Bhutan's oldest royal residence and the birthplace of the first King, will open to the public at the end of March as a state-of-the-art museum that will give travelers a glimpse into the country's regal heritage. 

What to Do

With its rich biodiversity and deep mysticism, Bhutan is a destination like no other. Embark on a spiritual journey, visiting ancient temples like the legendary cliff-hanging Paro Taktsang (Tiger's Nest monastery) — Bhutan's most famous (half-day) trek and pilgrimage point — and experiencing the vibrant Vajrayana Buddhist culture through colorful tshechus (masked-dance festivals).

Traverse ancient trails to remote villages and sacred sites on foot, bike, or horseback. While mountain climbing isn't permitted (Bhutan is home to Gangkhar Puensum, the highest unclimbed mountain in the world), adventurous trekkers can tackle the Snowman Trek, a punishing month-long trail that crosses five 16,000-ft-plus passes following the yak herders' circuit in northern Bhutan, dubbed by many outfitters as the world's toughest.

You can also try a round of archery, Bhutan's national sport, available at or near many hotels; nine holes of golf at Royal Thimphu Golf Course, one of the world's highest golf courses; or take a cooking class and learn how to make Bhutan's famous fiery dish, ema datshi (a stew made with chilies and cheese).

Where to Stay

Bhutan's growing portfolio of higher-end properties is redefining its hospitality landscape with new luxury retreats. Visitors can feel like Bhutanese royalty, with stays ranging from heritage homes to sleek wellness lodges scattered across Bhutan's five mystical valleys.

Amankora, the first international brand to enter the country in 2004, still shines as its five serene lodges (with locations in Thimphu, Paro, Punakha, Gangtey, and Bumthang) have maintained their timeless elegance. Six Senses followed suit more recently (its five lodges in the same locations as Amankora opened between 2018 and 2020), crowning valleys with ethereal suites and their signature wellness focus with "spa to table" dining that includes health-boosting juices and farm-fresh meals. Taj's upcoming additions in Paro and Phobjikha valleys signal even more high-end options on the horizon.

Then there are the trendsetters. A new wave of options has arrived with safari-style accommodations. The Bill Bensley-designed Pemako Punakha and &Beyond Punakha River Lodge trade meditative minimalism for bold maximalist décor, whereas Sangwa Camp is pushing geographical boundaries, establishing luxury tented outposts in remote valleys like Haa and Tsirang. A night stay at Sangwa, which means "hidden" in Dzonghka, feels almost like a form of  immersive theater, with fireside folk performances, astrology readings with monks, and after-dark wildlife tracking.

Amid these big-name properties, Bhutanese-owned luxury hotels hold their own. The pioneering five-star Zhiwaling Heritage in Paro emerged from a striking renovation, while four-star sister property Zhiwaling Ascent offers an intimate hideaway in a Thimphu pine forest — a location so prime that it served as the King's chosen quarantine retreat during the pandemic. In Paro, five-star wellness resort Bhutan Spirit Sanctuary focuses exclusively on Bhutanese traditional medicine, including a complimentary consultation with a traditional doctor and spa treatment.

For those seeking a different kind of accommodation experience, agrotourism properties like Dhumra Farm Resort, an elevated three-star hotel in Punakha, blend sophisticated comforts with fresh organic food.

Where to Eat

Once dubbed the "world's worst" cuisine by Ruth Reichl, then Editor-in-Chief of the now defunct Gourmet magazine, Bhutan's culinary scene is proving otherwise. While the national dish, ema datshi, and momos (delicate dumplings stuffed with minced chicken, beef, or potatoes) are Tibetan staples that have become essential to Bhutanese cuisine, a new wave of restaurants and culinary experiences is elevating the country's dining landscape.

In Thimphu, the Bhutan Wine Company's new wine bar offers a selection of European wine, and soon will be introducing its own Bhutanese vintages, while the Folk Heritage Restaurant, the city's first traditional Bhutanese eatery, remains a must-visit. The Russian Café overlooking Thimphu Dzong, the sprawling seat of the Bhutanese government and King, adds a twist to the capital's dining scene with its cozy ambiance and locally beloved menu.

Beyond the capital, Bumthang's Swiss Guest House — the first guest house in Central Bhutan — serves hearty Swiss and Bhutanese dishes, accompanied by house-made cheese, schnapps, and buckwheat pancakes. And Ogyen Choling Heritage House, run by "Chilli and Cheese" author Kunzang Choden, is another option in Bumthang.

Although you can always try a local, independently-run restaurant, your meals are largely determined by where you stay, as breakfast and dinner are typically included with your hotel or tour booking. And some hotels will even provide a packed lunch. However, luxury hotels and tour operators also offer guests a range of offsite dining experiences (think: a candlelit dinner next to a monastery or a multi-course feast prepared riverside).

How to get there 

Traveling to Bhutan can feel like a pilgrimage, but it's becoming easier. Paro International Airport is currently the country's sole international gateway, served exclusively by Druk Air and Bhutan Airlines. Known as one of the world's most dramatic airports, Paro requires specialized pilot training for its approach through steep valleys. Looking ahead, a second international airport in Gelephu is under construction and is expected to be completed in the next five to 10 years. (The first foreign aircraft landed there last April.)

Gateway cities with daily flights to Bhutan include Bangkok, Delhi, and Kathmandu. Additional connections on varying days are available from Singapore, Kolkata, Bombay, Dhaka, Dubai, and soon Hong Kong. (On a clear day, the Kathmandu-Paro route promises epic views of Mount Everest.)

Bhutan has four domestic airports: Paro (Western Bhutan); Bumthang (Central Bhutan), which recently debuted a new terminal; Yongphula (Eastern Bhutan); and Gelephu (Southern Bhutan). If crunched for time or traveling during monsoon season (June through August), consider a Paro-Bumthang flight, for example, to avoid the possibility of mudslides disrupting road travel. Drukair also offers helicopter service, which your tour operator or hotel could arrange.

You can also enter over land from India and even drive your rental car in (though the vehicle must be registered, and you are required to pay a fee). Border crossings are available in Phuentsholing, Gelephu, and Samdrup Jongkhar. 

Know Before You Go

A visa is required for all travelers, with a $40 application fee. For an additional fee, you can now extend your visa while in the kingdom, which was not possible before the pandemic (you had to exit the country for 14 days before you could re-apply).

A Sustainable Development Fee of $100 per day is required for all adults (through 2027). Children under six are exempt, and children ages six to 11 receive a 50% discount. The SDF does not provide you with any services — hotel, guide, transportation, activities, etc. are all extra and must be booked on your own or via a tour operator.

Guides are not required in Thimphu or Paro, but they are mandatory everywhere else — so having one throughout your trip is highly recommended. If you book exclusively with a hotel group like Amankora or Six Senses, so far, the only two hotels with lodges across Bhutan's five most-visited valleys, a guide will be provided. However, if you mix and match hotel properties, it's best to arrange a dedicated guide, which you can do through a tour operator.

You can often find hotel deals for off-season travel (June through August and December through February). If you are going for festival season in fall and spring when the biggest tshechus take place (Thimphu and Bumthang in the fall, Paro and Punakha in the spring), book at least six months to a year out.

For trekking, a local operator is essential, as independent backpacking is not permitted in Bhutan.